Snap Closure Glasses Case – Free Crochet Pattern

Do you wear glasses? Whether you are like me and have aging eyes, have worn glasses most of your life or just protect your eyes from the sun, it is fun to have a cute handmade eye glasses case. Add a fun snap closer and our favorite craft of crochet, and you’ve got a perfect afternoon project.

A few years ago I turned the dreaded big 4-0! Honestly, life has been amazing after 40, with the exception of my eyesight. I have noticed I need to lean a little closer to see clearer. Then last week I renewed my drivers license and decided it is time for me to go see an eye doctor. Thankfully, we have an optometrist in the family.

Snap Pouch Glasses Case Pattern

Blue Light Reading Glasses

I don’t officially have a subscription for glasses so I have been relying on readers.com over the last year. Just a little magnification helps so much! Then, I started hearing about blue light glasses and the benefits of them.

Blue light blocking glasses can help to filter out a percentage of blue light and lessen eye fatigue when you’re working on your computer screen or using electronic devices. Say goodbye to digital eye strain with a pair of blue light blocking* glasses! Also available with magnified lenses, known as “blue light reading glasses”, for those seeking the benefits of both.

www.readers.com

Check out how cute my glasses are! I love the Tortoise shell of the rims. I mean if you have to wear glasses, you better make them cute. Right.

blue light readers

Check out the entire collection of readers and blue light readers using the (affl link) button below:

Snap Pouch Glasses Case

How to make your Snap Closure Glasses Case

The snap closure on the glasses case makes it easy to slide your glasses in and out of the case. I used a quick and easy stitch that creates a thicker fabric to protect the glasses. I hope you enjoy learning something new and enjoy the tutorial.

The materials needed for the Glasses Case

  • Crochet Hook size G (4.00 mm)
  • Crochet Hook size H (5.00 mm)
  • Light Weight Yarn (#3) I used about 100 yards. In the sample shown, I used Lion Brand Vanna’s Style yarn
  • Metal Tape Measure – Tape should be ¾” wide (use an old one that you can re-purpose/upcycle if possible)
  • Tape – electrical tape is best, but duct tape or packaging tape will also work
  • Yarn Needle
  • Tin Snips or Old Scissors (cutting may dull the edges so don’t use your best pair)
Supplies for Glasses Case

Stitches & Abbreviations Used:

  • Ch = Chain
  • Sc = Single Crochet
  • FP = Front Post
  • St(s) = Stitch(es)
  • R = Row/Round

Completed Size of Glasses Case:

  • 3” opening and 7″ long, but instructions will allow you to customize the shape to fit any glasses

Pattern Notes

  • The pouch will be made while crocheting in the round working from the opening (top) down.
  • Beginning chain will not count as a stitch unless stated.
  • Gauge is very important when crocheting. However, in this design I will give you measurements to follow. Use these measurements to get the correct size of your finished glasses case.

Prep the Snap Closure

  • All glasses are different in size. It is a good idea to make your opening a minimum of 1 inch wider than your glasses. In this sample my glasses measure 2” so I made my opening 3”.
  • Cut 2 pieces of the tape measure 3” long (image shows just over 2″-follow the size noted in the above note for the size of your glasses).
  • Trim the sharp points so they are rounded, this will make them less likely to break through the tape and cut the yarn after construction.
  • Wrap the ends of the metal pieces with a sturdy tape. Electrical tape works best but you can use duct tape or packaging tape.
  • Set aside for use later.

Crocheting the Glasses Case

Using Hook G & Light Weight Yarn

Ch 32, making sure beginning chain is not twisted, join in first ch to form a ring (or chain as many chains as needed to equal the length of your prepared metal snap strips plus 2 stitches)

R1: Ch 1, sc in each ch around, join (32)

R2-4: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join (32)

At this point check to see if the rows are equal to the width of your tape. If they are then double your row count and add 1 more row (I met my width in 4 rows, therefore I will complete a total of 9 rows (*4 rows x 2 = 8 rows + 1 more row = 9 total rows) Make sure to adjust for your tape width.

After completing the 9 rows (or the number of rows needed *see notes above), fold the crochet piece in half. I liked having a little different look to the stitches so I folded mine so the back side of the sc rows was showing on the outside, this was just personal preference and you can fold either way you want.

Place one of the prepared metal pieces inside the fold. Make sure the curved side of the measuring tape is facing the outside of the case.

Single Crochet the snap strip into the fold by crocheting through the tops of the stitches from your last row AND through the beginning chain. Complete half of the row (16 stitches in my sample). Insert second prepared snap strip, again making sure the curved edge is facing outside. Continue to sc together around the rest of the row.

The opening snap of the eye glass case has been made. Just press on the edges and will snap open!

Change to Hook H (5.00 mm)

The body of the pouch will be made in rounds and made to the length of your glasses. Increase your hook size up two sizes

The first row will be the most difficult because the stitches from the snap section are tighter. Be patient and work slow, after the first round it is much easier.

Ch 1, FP single crochet around, do not join, you will work in continuous rounds.

Continue to FP single crochet in each stitch around until the length of your case (not counting the snap portion) measures the length of your glasses. Mine was about 7″ long.

Once the length has been reached, slst into the next stitch and fasten off leaving a long tail. Use that left over tail of yarn to sew/seam the bottom together and you are done!

More fun Crochet Tutorials Free from Sweet Potato 3

  • How to make a Twist Ear Warmer – click HERE
  • Dream Catcher Delight Wall Hanging – click HERE
  • Tree Garland and Gift Tags – click HERE
  • Hot Pads & Kitchen Scrubby with Gift Tag Printable – click HERE

Don’t miss out on any more Sweet Potato 3 Crochet Fun

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Join my facebook group SP3 Crochet & Conversations and share your finished project, we love seeing them and love support one another in our love of crochet.

Cropped Motif Cardigan – Crochet Pattern

The Cropped Motif Cardigan is an ideal light layer to cut the chill off on spring days. Designed to be a lightweight layer the cardigan will become a staple in your closet.

Designed in a unique square motif style the cardigan is easy to make in steps or on the go. Each square features a flirty floral design that gives is a perfect look of spring and will coordinate with most attire.

Cropped Motif Cardigan

The versatility of the cardi is endless. Pair it with a lightweight long sleeve shirt, like my daughter did (above image) and it works as a vest. Wear it over a spring sleeveless dress or tank top to add a little warmth.

About the Cropped Motif Cardigan Pattern

The cropped design is seen in the capped/cropped sleeves that cover the shoulder and in the length falling mid body. If you prefer a longer cardigan, you could add an additional row of motifs, however, I have not made one. If you do, I would love to see how it turns out.

The pattern comes in adult sizes ranging from Adult Small up to XLarge.

Made in a light (#3) weight yarn and a crochet hook H (5.00 mm) and crochet hook I (5.5 mm), the Cardigan works up quicker than you might think.

Grab your copy of the Cropped Motif Cardigan:

Whip Stitch Tutorial for Sewing Motifs Together

More Patterns You May Love

Crochet & Conversations

If you love this design, come on over and see more of my designs and join in on some fun crochet chatter in my, Crochet & Conversations Facebook Group, just click HERE and ask to join. Then, sign up for my blog notifications by entering your email address (just below my image to the right). You won’t get spammed, just lots of fun crochet patterns and ideas.

How to make a Twist Ear Warmer or Headband Tutorial

Have you been eyeing all the cute Twist Ear Warmer or Headbands? They seem to be everywhere and turn a basic Ear Warmer (or Headband) into a very cute accessory. Today, I am going to share how easy they are to make.

Twist Ear Warmer Tutorial

The technique used to make the twist ear warmer / headband is simply in the way you sew the crochet ends pieces together. You can use this technique with most crochet patterns.

I recently did a stitch tutorial for the mini bean stitch and included instructions on how to make this fun ear warmer. You can see the step by step tutorial by clicking this LINK HERE. Then come back here to sew it up with a twist.

Mini Bean Twist Ear Warmer

How to make a Twist in your Ear Warmers

You will need to finish your ear warmer to the correct length. Most adult ear warmers will be about 20″ long, but may be different due to how much stretch the stitches allow for. Follow the recommendation in the pattern you are following.

Instead of folding the ends together and sewing them up in a straight seam, fold each crochet end in half. Once they are both folded in half, nestle them inside each other and fold together.

Using a tapestry needle, you will sew the ends together. Make sure you work the top of the stitches for all 4 layers, working across the entire row ends. When you reach the end, secure with a knot and weave in your ends.

Turn your headband right side out and you are done. The Twist is sewn in and lays perfectly.

Twist Ear Warmer Tutorial

Watch A Step By Step Tutorial

If you are like me, watching a tutorial is very helpful, so I created this YouTube video just for you. Click HERE to watch it on YouTube and subscribe, or just watch below:

Share your Twist Ear Warmers or Headbands

I would love to see your twist ear warmer you made, please come and join my , Crochet & Conversations Facebook Group. It is a fun and engaging group where you can share all things crochet related, just click HERE and ask to join.

Sweet Potato 3

Mini Bean Stitch and Ear Warmer Instructions

One of my favorite stitches to crochet is the mini bean stitch. I love how it works up quick, has a rich texture to it and leaves your crocheted fabric plush and soft. Seriously, what could be better than this?

The mini bean stitch is pretty simple to learn. Today I am going to show you exactly how to crochet it step by step. Then, I will give you a way to practice your new stitch by working up a fun Ear Warmer.

Mini Bean Stitch Ear Warmer Pattern

How to Begin your Ear Warmer

I will start off by walking you through the stitch step by step. Then, at the end of the tutorial you can watch my YouTube video to make sure you understand each step correctly.

Use a Crochet Hook I (5.50 mm) and about 100 yards of worsted weight yarn. I used Red Heart Amore in the color, restful, and love how soft the headband came out. In fact, I was able to make 2 headbands with 1 skein of yarn.

Mini Bean Twist Ear Warmer

Gauge is not essential in this pattern but make sure your stitches are not so tight that the fabric is stiff. If you want to match my gauge it is as follows: using crochet hook I, 9 mini bean stitches and 14 rows resulted in a 4 inch square.

Begin the Ear Warmer Pattern

  • You will want to begin working with an odd number of stitches.
  • Begin with a beginning chain of 20.
  • Single Crochet in the 2nd chain from your hook and each chain to the end of the row and turn.
  • For Row 2, single crochet in each stitch across the row and turn.

How to Crochet the Mini Bean Stitch

  • Always begin your row with a chain 1, insert your hook into the first stitch and pull up a loop.
  • Yarn over and insert your hook back into the same stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop.
  • You will now have 4 loops on our hook, yarn over and pull through all 4 loops on your hook.
  • Chain 1, skip next stitch, repeat bean stitch in next stitch
  • Repeat across entire row.
  • For the 2nd row of mini bean stitches, you will chain 1 and turn.
  • Complete a mini bean in top of the mini bean from the last row, skip the chain and work the next mini bean in top of the mini bean of the prior row.
  • Continue working mini bean stitch rows until your ear warmer reaches 19 1/2 inches long

See How to Crochet the Mini Bean Stitch

If you are like me, watching a tutorial is very helpful, so I created this YouTube video just for you. Click HERE to watch it on YouTube and subscribe, or just watch below:

How to Finish Ear Warmers & Sew Twisted Seam

  • Crochet 2 more rows of single crochets and then fasten off leaving a long tail of yarn you will use to sew the ends together.
  • To get the “twist” in the headband, follow this easy tutorial you can see by CLICKING HERE.

This is another fun part in making the mini bean ear warmers. I put together a tutorial on how to sew the ends together to give it that perfect twist. Click HERE to watch a quick tutorial and finish your project.

Crochet from a Graph: learn today

I am hosting a LIVE session in my Crochet & Conversations group about how to crochet from a chart! That’s right. I have received so many requests regarding this topic. I finally decided it was time to sit down and do some show & tell.

Where can I watch the LIVE video?

The Facebook LIVE will be hosted in my Crochet & Conversations group on Facebook. This is a fun and interactive group of fellow crocheters. We chat about, post about, and see everything about crochet. We support one another and cheer one another on as we learn new things. That is why this session will be hosting in this supportive group. You can join now by clicking HERE.

pattern group

What do I need?

The LIVE session will be visual based. But, you are welcome to work along with me as I show the details. I will be working slow so you can see each step of the way. If this is your very first time trying to crochet from a chart it may be helpful to just watch and then watch the replay and work along side me.

All you will need to work along with me is some small amounts of yarn. A smaller crochet hook, I will probably be using a Crochet Hook H (5.00 mm) and a crochet graph to work off of. I have created a small graph that goes with the upcoming holiday to practice with. Click this link to download and print an easy crochet Jack-O-Lantern graph to try out.


Let me know how it goes

I would love to hear how your progress is going with this new skill set. There are so many amazing patterns that are worked using charts. Knowing how to crochet from a graph will allow you to crochet from so many more patterns, you will be very thankful once you have it mastered.

Want to Try a Bigger Project?

One of my best selling patterns uses this crocheting from a graph method. It also will use the same stitches that I showed in my LIVE tutorial so you can see how I worked it up. Check out my Deerly Beloved Blanket by clicking this LINK.

Deerly Beloved Blanket

Beer Thirty Mitten Cozy Video Tutorial

One of my more popular patterns, especially this time of year, is the Beer Thirty Mitten Cozy. This is a fun gift to give to the tailgater, BBQers, Soccer Moms , or anyone who enjoys a cold beer or hot coffee during those chilly hours.

The pattern includes instructions for the cozy mitten as well as a traditional mitten. You basically get 2 patterns in one. The pattern includes multiple sizes for adults including: Small / Medium / Large / XLarge.

Beer Thirty crochet pattern  beer thirty mitten cozy

I recently updated the Beer Thirty Mitten Cozy Pattern to my new easier to read format. But, the biggest change is that I added a video tutorial. When making the cozy mitten you have to make a few folds to help construct the cozy. These can be a little tricky to explain in words, so showing you is a better option. I hope you find the update and new tutorial helpful.

The original Beer Thirty post can be found by clicking HERE.

The Beer Thirty Mitten Cozy Pattern can be found on:

If you found this tutorial helpful, subscribe to my YouTube Channel by clicking HERE. You will be notified whenever I release a new video, tutorial or tip/trick on my channel.

More Crochet Fun

If you enjoy this pattern and tutorial and would like to participate in more Crochet & Conversations, join my facebook group. It is an interactive group of fellow crocheters. The facebook group can be a great crochet resource. We enjoy sharing our current WIPs (works in progress), our finished master-pieces and any other crochet related ideas. Click, HERE, to join and answer just a couple questions. I hope to see you in the group and get to know you better as we crochet our days away!

Sweet Potato 3

Dream Catcher Delight – Free Crochet Pattern

My daughter has always had a difficult time getting to sleep at night. We have tried many different routines but when the lights go out, she thinks she will have a bad dream. I was so excited when she came home from school one day and told me one of her friends got a dream catcher and she was sure this would fix her bedtime worries.

*unknown source

This sparked an idea and I knew I had to make one for her the next day. This was such a fun and easy project that literally took an afternoon. I am excited to share this tutorial with all of you today.

Sweet Potato 3

Dream Catchers Delight Tutorial

For this pattern I used some beautiful cotton yarn by Paint Box, but any scrap yarn will do. Here is a list of materials needed:

Worsted Weight Scrap Yarn (sample was made from Paintbox Cotton):

Colors used in sample: Lipstick Pink (45 yards), Blush Pink (45 yards), Seafoam Blue (8 yards), Dolphin Blue (12 yards), Dusty Rose (8 yards)

Crochet Hook G (4.5 mm)

Embroider Hoop 6” or 15cm

Scissors & Yarn Needle

Dream Catcher Delight Materials

Gauge: gauge checks will be given throughout the pattern.

Begin with color 1 (center of dream catcher)

Ch 4, join in 1st ch to form a loop

R1: Ch 1, 8sc in loop, join in fist sc

R2: Ch 2, in same st as join work dc4tog, ch 4, [in next st dc5tog, ch 4], repeat [] to end, fasten off and weave in ends (8 puffs made)

Gauge check: measures 2” across center

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Using color 2, join in any chain loop of R2

R3: Ch 1, 7sc in each ch loop around, join in 1st sc

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R4: Slst in next 3 sts (you should be in the 4th sc of the 7sc in the loop), ch 12, slst in same st as last slst, [slst in next 7 sts, ch 12, slst in same st as last slst], repeat [] around, slst in next 3 sts (you should be at the beginning slst), fasten off and weave in ends (8 ch spaces made)

Gauge check; measures 3” across not including the chain loops

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Using color 2 (same as last section), join in any chain loop from R4

R5: Ch 1, 10sc in chain loop, ch 2, [10sc in next ch loop, ch 2], repeat [] around, join in top of 1st sc

Gauge check: measures 5” across

Sweet Potato 3

R6: Slst in next 3 sts, [ch 2, skip next 2 sts, slst in next st, ch 6, skip next 8 sts, slst in next st], repeat [] around, join in slst before first ch 2 sp, fasten off and weave in ends

Gauge check: measures just under 6” across (this must be just under 6”, if it is more than 6” then your hoop will be too small, the crochet piece needs to stretch slightly to look nice)

Sweet Potato 3

Using color 1

Join into any ch 2 sp but also join around embroidery hoop, in the next round you will be crocheting around the embroidery hoop and in the ch sps from R6

R7: [4sc in ch 2 sp, 12sc in ch 6 sp], repeat [] around,

Note: this row is a bit awkward to crochet, I found it easiest to hold the hoop perpendicular to my body and kind of crochet sideways, but however you can do it, will work.

Sweet Potato 3

Almost Done!

Optional: if you feel like the edge (top of sc around hoop) are not clean and even this row will help,  turn work and slst in top of each sc from R7, fasten off and weave in ends

Sweet Potato 3

Add the Fringe

Cut 10 strands of yarn in 5 different colors. Each strand was approximately 28” long.

Sweet Potato 3

Fold each strand in half and join at the fold, attach around the yarn wraps around the hoop.

Sweet Potato 3

Once all fringe has been attached, comb straight and trim to a “v”.

Sweet Potato 3

Make 2 Flowers

For the first flower I used Blue yarn and followed this beautiful pattern called the May Rose, link HERE. Take note that this pattern is in UK terms so remember the stitches in US terms are different, the difference is referenced in the pattern.

For the second flower I used pink yarn and followed the same May Rose pattern but only began with a beginning chain of 20. I then worked 3 large petals, 3 medium petals and 3 small petals. 

Dream Catcher Delight Tutorial

Make 3 Leaves

Ch 6, sl st in 2nd ch from hk. Sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, 4 dc in next ch, rotate and work along bottom of foundation ch, 4dc in first ch (same ch as last dc made in), dc in next ch, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch, sl st in next, fasten off.

Sweet Potato 3

Make Swirled Tassel

Ch 40, sc in 5th ch from hook (the skipped ch 4 will create a loop, this loop  will be where you attach the tassel later in the pattern), 2sc in each ch to end, fasten off.

To add tassel at end cut 16 pieces of yarn about 10” long, pull yarn pieces through chain 4 loop at end of tassel and fold in half

Using a contrasting color of yarn, wrap around tassel just below fold. I wrapped around about 4 times and securely tie tight, trim ends of tassel even.

Optional: add a charm and/or beads to tassel

Dream Catcher Tutorial

Assembly

Attach blue flower on left side of dream catcher, where the fringe begins.

Sew pink flower just below blue flower.

Sew one leaf to the right of the pink flower, follow the same angle as the hoop,  

Sew another leaf about ¾” above the blue flower also following the same angle as the hoop.

Sew last leaf under the petals of the blue flower. Angle it straight up covering the base of the last leaf sewn on.

Attach tassel to the dreamcatcher on about 1” from the fringe edge on the right side.

Tip: If the fringe on the dream catcher is not straight it may help to steam it while it is hanging.

Sweet Potato 3

I hope you enjoyed this crochet Dream Catcher tutorial. Make Subscribe by email {in upper right column on blog} so you don’t miss future tutorials or pattern releases. Then come join my SP3 Crochet & Conversations group on facebook, we will be started a CAL soon teaching you Tapestry Crochet, I hope to see you in there.

~Christine

 

Free Rock the Block Blanket Pattern & Tutorial

I love learning new stitches with fun textures! When those stitches work up quick it is an added bonus. I know I am not the only one. Earlier this year I released a section of a CAL and everyone kept talking about how much they LOVE the stitch. I immediately knew I had to share the block stitch with everyone.

Rock the Block Blanket

This specific block stitch has so many names that I am just calling it the Rock the Block Blanket. You will also hear it called the grid stitch, boucan stitch, leaping stripes and many more… but essentially, it is one of many different types of block stitch.

Today I am going to share with you how to work up this fun stitch and give you the pattern to work up this fun blanket in any size you want! I will also show you how to get over 6 different looks with this simple stitch pattern. So make sure you stay with me to the end.

Another HUGE advantage of working this block stitch is that the edges of the blanket are left clean. There is NO need to work an edge, WaHOO!!! I can hear you all shouting with JOY right now!

One Block Stitch / 6 Different Looks

Now this is my favorite part. Check out all the different looks you can achieve by working the block stitch. As you see all these versions, just start imagining the colors and patterns you can create as you make your Rock the Block Blanket.

Rock the Block Solid Rock the Block

Rock the Block Rock the Block

Rock the Block Rock the Block

Rock the Block Pattern

What Size?

First you need to decide what size of blanket you would like to make and make a note of the width and length. Here is a good visual for blanket sizes I found online (unfortunately I don’t know who the image belongs to so I cannot give proper credit).

Blanket Size

What Pattern or How many Colors?

Yep, you have to pick one of them. I know it can be difficult but decide if you want to use one color, 2 colors or more. Then decide if you want to make your blanket with a specific pattern (1 row repeats, 2 row repeats, random, etc.), see the images earlier in this post to help you decide or watch this tutorial to see each one is worked.

Begin your Project:

Crochet a foundation row in multiples of 4 sc until the desired width is reached.

R1: Ch 1, sc in next 3 sts, [ch 2, skip next 2 sts, sc in next 2 sts], repeat [] until 5 sts remain, ch 2, skip next 2 sts, sc in next 3 sts, turn

R2: Ch 4 (counts as hdc + ch 2), skip next 3 sts, [dc in next 2 skipped sts from 2 rows prior, ch 2, skip next 2 sts], repeat [] to last st, hdc in last st, turn Note: Dc in this and following rows will be worked around/over the chain sp of the prior row, ch sp will be covered by the dc.

R3: Ch 2 (counts as a hdc), dc in next 2 skipped sts from 2 rows prior, [ch 2, skip next 2 sts, dc in next 2 skipped sts from 2 rows prior], repeat [] to last st, hdc in 2nd ch of beg ch, turn

Repeat R2 & R3 until desired length is reached

Final Row: Ch 1, sc in next 3 sts, [dc in next 2 skipped sts from 2 rows prior, sc in next 2 sts of current row], repeat [] to last st, sc in last st, fasten off and weave in all ends

Rock the Block

I hope you love crocheting the Rock the Block Blanket as much as I did. In case you wanted to know how I worked the sample blanket up, below are my specific notes. I made this blanket as a stash buster, using up some of the yarn in my closet. I used Red Heart Super Saver yarn the a Crochet Hook I.

Begin with C1 (Light Grey) Complete R1-R15

Switch to C2 (Aruba) Complete R16-R32

Switch to C3 (Turqua) Complete R33-R35

Switch to C4 (Orchid) Complete R36-R38

Switch to C5 (Aran) Complete R39-R49

Switch to C4 (Orchid) Complete R50-R52

Switch to C6 (Amethyst) Complete R53-R65

Switch to C3 (Turqua) Complete R66-R68

Switch to C4 (Orchid) Complete R69-R73

Switch to C1 (Light Grey) Complete R74-R90

Switch to C3 (Turqua) Complete R91-R93

Switch to C2 (Aruba) Complete R94-R108

Switch to C4 (Orchid) Complete R109-R111

Switch to C3 (Turqua) Complete R112-R114

Switch to C5 (Aran) Complete R115-R128

Switch to C6 (Amethyst) Complete R129-R139

Switch to C1 (Light Grey) Complete R140-R156 + Final Row

And that sums it all up! If you give this pattern a try, please share your final project on Sweet Potato 3’s facebook page so everyone can see how beautiful it really is.

 

 

How to Crochet Foundation Stitches: Single, Half Double & Double

Have you heard of Foundation Crochet Stitches? Wondering what all the hype is? Well, today I am going to show you why I love beginning crochet project with Foundation Stitches.

Benefits of Foundation Crochet Stitches

Avoid the Dreaded Beginning Chain: How often do you begin a project (say a blanket) and the first row begins with a crazy amount of chains, like 250? When I see this, my mind immediately goes to the thought of how much I dread working my row of single crochets (or hdc, dc, tc) into each and everyone of those chains.

Quick: Well, for me, working into all those beginning chains is the worst part of a crochet project. It simply takes too long and if not done perfect can effect the final crochet piece. I want a quick solution! When crocheting a project with a Foundation row that beginning row will work up much quicker. It may take some practice, but trust me, it is so much quicker!

Stretch & Flexibility: Back to that beginning chain again (LOL-can you tell I am not a fan), not only does it take forever, but you have to have every chain the exact tension or a loop will stand out like a wine stain on your white rug. You also have to make sure you chain loose enough to avoid the inevitable tight bottom that causes your beautiful blanket to veer or fan out (caused from the beginning chain being too tight).

I need a solution to that beginning chain and the Foundation Crochet Stitches are the answer!

If you found this tutorial useful please share it with others, pin it for quick reference and follow along on my blog (subscribe by email in the right column) so you don’t miss any other quick tips, tutorials and pattern releases! Also, join me on Facebook for lot’s of crochet fun!

How to Invisibly Attach a Crochet Applique

Do you dread  it when a pattern says to sew on the crochet applique? It is so much work and can be difficult to get the applique on right. And to make matters worse, the back of your project can get all messed up.

Today I am excited to share with you how I sew on my appliques with an invisible seam. You won’t be able to see any stitches on the front OR on the back of your crochet piece. The technique will leave your crochet work looking professional and you won’t dread this task anymore.

Sew on the Applique – it looks great on both sides.

Sewing on Applique

One of the most common questions I receive is how to sew on appliques. After years of my own trial and error, I knew I had to share with all of you a technique that I personally use. You will be surprised at how easy it is.

In the video tutorial, I used worsted weight yarn. However, this technique will work on any yarn weight, or any combination of yarn weights. It may take a little practice, but before long you will feel like a pro.

Was this tutorial helpful? I would love to have you subscribe to me on YouTube, you will be notified each time I release a new video. Click HERE to subscribe.

The sample used in the tutorial above is my Farm Animal Blanket. Find more information on this fun blanket design by clicking HERE.

Farm Animal Blanket

Patterns that you can use this sewing technique on are:

  • Sleep Tight Teddy Bear Blanket and Lovey can be found HERE.
  • All Boy Applique Set (think Planes, Trains & Automobiles), these can be sewn onto hats or any blanket pattern. Find the appliques by clicking this LINK HERE.
  • Forest Friends Blanket, Pillow & Wall Hanging pattern can be found in the LINK. 

Adding Fabric Labels to your Crochet Items

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I started selling crochet hats over 3 1/2 years ago. I didn’t expect it to really take off. So, I just leisurely made them, and sold them. Well, to my surprise, today I am still selling crochet hats and am honored and excited every time someone orders one.

My 1st step to looking professional: adding Labels

 Now that I am confident my business will continue to grow, (plus the fact that I just signed on to sell at a local shop), I started looking into ways to be and look more professional. I decided the first step would be adding labels to my hats and other crochet items. Whilst I did consider using a portable printer to make my own, I decided it’d be better to hire someone for my use to make them. I tried communicating with multiple shops about placing custom orders and turn around times. Turn around time was a minimum 3-4 weeks and I had a hard time just getting in contact with the owners.

Mad Mad Graphics

I turned to my facebook page and asked for recommendations. I started sending out inquiries. The first to reply was Melody from Mad Mad Graphics. Melody answered all my questions, was informative and had a very quick turn around (and I didn’t even tell her I was in a rush). She collected my information. I placed my order Thursday evening. Melody then shipped my order Friday, yes I said Friday!!! I received my labels from Mad Mad Graphics on Monday. The labels were just like the proof she sent me, very clear and high quality. I would highly recommend ordering your labels from Mad Mad Graphics and make sure to tell Melody that I recommended her. Make sure to follow her Mad Qeen Mother facebook page as well!

They arrived, now what? Prepping your labels

Many of my facebook fans have inquired about adding labels as well. Here is a step by step guide to how I used the labels. It also shows how easy it really is:

 The labels arrived within days of my order. I am still amazed at how quick Melody was at corresponding, designing, printing and shipping my labels. I had these labels in my mailbox within 4 days of my first message to her. Now that is 5 star service!

To quickly cut the tags out, I used my rotary cutter. This step only took about 5 minutes because there are markings on the fabric that shows you were to cut or align your cutting guide. I only cut them long ways, then turned to the scissors.

I cut the short edges of the labels by hand. This was also very quick but now my labels are cut and stored right next to my sewing machine and ready to add to any item I make.

UPDATE: the labels I ordered are 3/4″ wide X 1 1/2″ high

Sewing on the Labels: Machine or by Hand

When you are ready to sew them onto your hat just fold them in half. I ran my finger nails along the seam to help reinforce it. There is a paper backing that you need to take off before you sew so make sure to peel that off (I peeled it off after I folded them in half).

 Now was the big moment. Sewing the labels to your hats. This was a bit trickier than I thought it would be. You may want to practice on a couple crochet swatches before you go to the real thing. My first attempt I didn’t get the back of the label, but once I realized this I just remembered to double check before I began to sew each time.

*Note: some of my hats are made in a bulky yarn and do not fit through the sewing machine, I was able to hand sew the labels on just fine. This is an option for those that do not have a sewing machine.

Look how nice and professional my hats look now. I am excited to bring these hats to a local shop and start selling them. With any luck I would love to run into someone proudly wearing a My Sweet Potato 3 hat in downtown this fall or winter.

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial. Follow my blog so you don’t miss out on future tutorials, pattern releases, sales and just plain crochet fun. Then come follow me on facebook for even more interaction in the hobby of crochet.