Blocking Crochet Pieces – Why, When & How

The moment you finish a crochet project is one of life’s simple joys. You weave in the last end, set down your hook, yarn and scissors and lay out your masterpiece to check it out – and WAIT – it doesn’t look quite as nice as you had hoped, what went wrong? It does not have the sharp finished look that you had hoped for, so what more does it need? Perhaps, blocking your crochet piece will do the trick.

Blocking Crochet

I know, I cringe when the word “block” slips into my mind too. However, this technique really isn’t as bad as it is made up to be. Blocking crochet pieces is one tip that you can do to elevate your crochet work to the next level.

What Does Blocking refer to in Crochet?

The most basic answer is that blocking getting your crochet piece wet or damp to manipulate the shape/size and allowing it to air dry. Blocking will shape your crochet project giving it a clean and professional look. An important note to remember is that blocking can increase the size of a crochet piece slightly but it cannot decrease the size.

You only need a few tools to block your crochet piece and they include: water, measuring tape, a blocking mat, blocking pins and of course your crochet piece.

blocking crochet supplies

Blocking Mats

The size of the project you are blocking will determine how many mats you will need. I love my blocking mats from Knitters Pride. They come in a convenient plastic tote that helps keep them clean while in storage. I also love that it keeps them together so that when I need them, I simply grab the handle and have access to multiple squares that can snap together to make a larger mat if needed. You can purchase these blocking mats by clicking HERE, or discover more crochet tools from Knitters Pride by clicking HERE.

Blocking Pins

The other tool that is a must is a set of rust proof blocking pins. There are many options of blocking pins, many of which come as individual pins. Using individual pins can make blocking a larger project take forever (which is why so many of us are not fans of blocking). Individual pins do have their place though as they are ideal for detailed edges and to help place stitches (such as picots) into place.

Knitters Pride has fabulous pins that come in a case and instead of being individual pins, they are grouped together in two different sizes. These groups allow you to quickly pin an entire section of your crochet project and speeds up the process.

Ever since I received these blocking pins the thought of blocking hasn’t bothered me at all. It is actually kind of fun because they make blocking feel like a breeze. They really are a game changer. You can purchase the Knitters Pride Blocking Pins by clicking HERE.

When should I Block my crochet piece?

Blocking has a few different purposes and is not required (in my opinion) for every crochet piece. Obviously, there is no need to block amigurumi projects. Crochet hats will naturally get shaped as they are worn so blocking is not required.

I do recommend blocking some types of crochet pieces such as Home Decor items (especially ones that will lay flat like doilies, table runners, placemats, etc.), lace projects of any type, garments (helps with the drape) and sometimes blankets, but let’s look into that one a little more closely.

Blankets – Hmmm, this one can be tricky

Some (and I stress some) blankets that are used for daily use and use a simple or basic stitch throughout do not need to be blocked. However, if you crochet a simple stitch blanket and notice the tension/gauge has changed, blocking can help and I would recommend it in this situation. Also, if you are gifting a blanket, blocking can make it really look clean and sharp so blocking would be encouraged in this situation.

If the blanket is being used more as a home decor element and not as a warm wrap to snuggle up with on the couch, then blocking is also recommended. A good example of these blankets would be my Interchangeable Wildlife Blankets shown below (pattern can be found by click HERE).

Interchangeable Wildlife Blankets

When to Block Continued

If your crochet piece has “curled” due to tightening or loosening of your stitches, as you worked through your project, blocking can help correct the roll.

If a crochet piece has a delicate stitch pattern that kind of gets lost in the drape (such as a garment or curtain) blocking can help. By blocking the piece, the stitches will be more defined and it will improve the drape and overall look of the crochet piece.

For projects that need to have an exact measurement, blocking can work wonders. For example, if you are making a blanket with squares that will later be sewn together you may find that each completed square may vary slightly due to using different yarn brands, different stitches or simple tension changes. Blocking can make these squares uniform in size.

Types of Blocking

Soak (or Wet) Blocking, is where you submerge the entire crochet piece in water. Soak the project for 30 minutes so all the fibers are thoroughly wet. Press the water out. A common way to do this is to lay the project on a towel, then roll the towel and the crochet project up together to press out the water, repeating until project is not dripping. It is very important to never twist the water out. Pin the project out on the blocking board and allow it to dry completely. This type of blocking takes the longest but has the biggest impact. So, if your crochet piece needs a lot of help, this would be recommended.

Wet Blocking

Steam (also known as Dry) Blocking, instead of getting your project completely wet you will simply use a steamer to moisten and heat the fibers in the yarn. Often this is done while the crochet project is hanging to help enhance the drape such as in a garment. It is quicker than soak blocking because it takes significantly less time to dry.

Spray Blocking, this is the most common type of blocking and is right between soak and steam blocking. This form of blocking is quicker than soaking your garment but gives a little more assistance than just steaming. I will walk you through Spray blocking below.

Spray Blocking – the project

Recently, I was working on a blanket that was crocheted using squares. Each square used a different stitch (I’ll share this pattern when it is released-you’ll love it). This was so fun to make but each square varied slightly, so blocking was essential.

Blocking Crochet

Each block was designed to be 10″ X 10″ and honestly, they were all very close. But looking carefully you can see that they all vary slightly, with the top two squares being slightly smaller. With just 4 squares this may seem like a minute difference, but this blanket has 30 squares total. Having 30 squares that vary this much in size will result in some pulling or stretching as the squares are stitched together, resulting in an unprofessional or messy looking blanket.

Before you begin any blocking project, make sure your blocking mat is larger than the size you are blocking. For this example, I needed each square to measure exactly 10″, the mats are about 12″ so I was able to use just one. If my project was larger than the mat, I would simply need to snap multiple blocking mats together.

Blocking crochet piecees

How To Spray block

Lay your crochet piece on the blocking mat. Generously spray the crochet piece with room temperature water until the entire piece is moist. Flip the crochet square over and repeat, spraying generously until the entire surface is damp.

Using rust proof pins, measure and pin the square into place. Don’t pull the square into place. Gently press from the center of the square and nudge it to the correct size. Measure each side carefully and pin all edges. After the entire square has been pinned, remeasure for accuracy.

Blocking Crochet Square

After the crochet piece has been blocked let it dry completely. I typically let it dry over night or longer. You do not want to take the pins out while there is still moisture in the crochet piece. After all the pieces have been blocked you can see that the edges are more aligned. The top squares are no longer smaller and this will result in a more polished blanket.

Blocking crochet square

Tips to elevate your crochet

I would like to bring you more blog posts about how to elevate your crochet. This is the first post and I hope you found it helpful. I will be releasing more posts and will link them below. Until then, I would love to hear your suggestions on tips you would like to see.

  • How to Add Labels to Your Crochet Project – click HERE
  • Ideas on How to Clean Up Your Craft Room – click HERE

A Customized Crochet Woven Basket / Pot Holder Pattern

Crocheting home décor items are a perfect way to showcase your love for working with yarn. However, it can be challenging to find modern designs that add a little texture and warmth without making your display to cluttered. The Woven Basket/Pot Holder is just that, it doesn’t add an extra object (clutter), it just adds that missing piece of texture you’ve been longing for.

I created a full tutorial that will walk you through how to customize this design to suit your need. It can be made as a plant pot cover, for any sized plant, or you can create a shallow basket as a catch all. You could even crochet it smaller to work as a crochet hook holder or can cozy. If you can think of a fun idea, this tutorial will work!

Woven Basket Design

The Accident that lead to the woven basket design

I had a plant that was displayed in my entryway. One afternoon my daughter was goofing off with her brothers and threw something (I honestly can’t even remember what it was) and it bounced off one of the boys, hit the plant which crashed to the floor. The pot completely shattered. Now, all I had was a cute plant with an ugly Styrofoam base.

pant base

I had some leftover home decor yarn from a project I had previously worked on (a whole book on home décor you can find it HERE… link coming soon) and thought the yarn would be fun to use to create a new base for the plant.

The Woven Look of the Stitch

When I stumble upon a new stitch my mind usually starts to buzz with ideas on how to incorporate it into a new design. When I saw this gorgeous woven stitch, I knew right away it had be worked into a basket design. Isn’t this stitch amazing?

Woven Basket Stitch

Materials Needed

Honestly, this is the fun part about woven basket design. The pattern is designed so you can customize it to the size you want. I encourage you to go to your yarn stash and grab the color of yarn you really want to use. Don’t worry about the weight of the yarn, just estimate if you will have enough. I made 3 samples, seen below, in the next paragraph I will let you know how much yarn I used for each one.

Woven Basket Pattern

The short basket that I left empty (we use it as a catch all for keys) uses Berroco Comfort Yarn (color: 9709). This yarn was in my stash and was left over from my Bella Borsetta Clutch pattern, you can find that by clicking HERE. The Berroco yarn is a finer worsted weight yarn. Therefore, I decided to crochet the basket holding 2 strands together and used about 80-100 yards total. For this sample I used a crochet hook size K (6.50 mm).

I used Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in the smallest sample in the color, Ivory. I used 1 strand of yarn (crochet hook size I (5.50mm) ) and the entire pattern worked up in about 60 yards.

For the larger pink basket I used Lion Brand Rewind yarn which is a (finer) bulky home décor yarn. I used about half of a skein, or 100 yards, and used a crochet hook size K (6.50 mm). The Mahogany Rose color is very soft and muted.

Lion Brand Rewind

Other items you may want to have on hand are a stitch marker, scissors and yarn needle.

Stitches and abbreviations Used

  • Ch(s) = Chain(s)
  • St(s) = Stitch(es)
  • Sc = Single Crochet
  • Hdc = Half Double Crochet
  • Spike Sc = Spike Single Crochet
  • Reverse Sc = Reverse Single Crochet (also known as the Crab Stitch)
  • FP = Front Post
  • BL = Back Loop Only
  • FL = Front Loop Only
  • R = Row/Round

The ridged bottom of the Woven Basket

The woven stitch creates a nice thick fabric which holds up great for sides of a basket. However, when you create something with sides are are thicker/heavier it is important to have a sturdy base. This took some trial and error but I eventually came up with a fun way to do just that.

Plus, the technique I used created a ridge on the basket bottom/base which helps keep the circular shape of the basket.

Woven basket bottom

Gauge Check

This pattern is very unique since it can be customized to any size and can be made with any type of yarn. Due to all the customization available, you do not need to check your gauge. Just follow the instructions to make the basket the size you want. Make sure you use the recommended hook size on your yarn label.

A step by step video

Beginning your custom basket or pot holder

R1: Ch 2, 8hdc in 2nd ch from hook, join with a slst in the top of the 1st hdc of the round (8) pull beginning strand of yarn to close hole *note: you may begin with a magic circle if you prefer

Woven Basket Round 1

Part 1 of R2: you will crochet 2 layers in this round, Ch 1, work this section in the BL only, 2hdc in each st around making sure not to work into the joining slst of R1 (16), do not join

Part 2 of R2: you will now work a round in the unworked FL (1st image) repeating the 2hdc in each st around, this will create a 2nd layer (2nd image) join in both of the 1st stitches from both layers (3rd image) to complete the round (4th image)

R3: Ch 1, work this round working through both layers of R2, 2hdc in 1st st, hdc in next st, [2hdc in next st, hdc in next st], repeat [] around (24)

Woven Basket Round 3

R4: using the same technique you used on R2, crochet 2 layers in this round, Ch 1, work this section in the BL only 2hdc in 1st st, hdc in each of the next 2 sts, [2hdc in next st, hdc in each of the next 2 sts], repeat [] around (32) do not join, you will now work a round in the unworked FL repeating [] around, join in both of the 1st stitches of each layer in this round

R5: Ch 1, work this round working through both layers of stitches from R4, 2hdc in 1st st, hdc in each of the next 3 sts, [2hdc in next st, hdc in each of the next 3 sts], repeat [] around (40)

*note: at this point you will continue to crochet increase rounds working every even rows with a double layer. Odd rows crochet as a single layer while working through the double layer of the previous row. Continue this pattern until the bottom of your basket in your desired size. You can end on either an even or an odd row.

Final Round: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join

Creating the turn from bottom to side of basket

R1: Ch 1, loosely FPsc in each st around, join and turn

If you are wondering what a FP (front post) single crochet is, take a look at the photo tutorial below: Ch 1, insert hook around the post of the st from the prior row (see image 1 & 2), yarn over and pull up a loop (image 3 & 4), yarn over pull through both loops on hook to complete the FPsc (image 5), repeat around row (image 6).

R2: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join

R3: Ch 1, spike st in each st around, join

See the tutorial below for the spike stitch: Begin with a ch 1, insert your hook into the base of the sc from the prior row (image 1 & 2), pull up a loop (image 3), yarn over, pull through 2 loops on hook to complete the spike st (image 4), continue working a spike stitch (image 5) around entire row, join (image 6).

The Woven Stitch / Side of Basket

R4: Ch 1, skip first st, in next st work 1 row below , working into the skipped st of current row repeat [], {skip next st, in next st work 1 row below repeat [], working in the skipped st of the current row repeat []}, repeat {} around, join (see photo tutorial below).

Repeat R4 to desired height – I recommend watching the video to see stitch placement. It is much easier to show than try to explain. Video is further up in the blog post.

A Rolled Finished Edge

Once you finish the sides of your basket it is nice to have an easy and clean edge. I love the rolled look of the last round. It helps create a clean and professional edge that doesn’t take away from the beautiful stitching throughout the design.

Rolled Edges

R1: Ch 1,reverse sc (crab st) in each st around, fasten off and weave in all ends.

Reverse Single Crochet Tutorial: You will work backwards going from left to right. Insert hook into 1st st (image 1 & 2), pull up a loop (image 3), you now have 2 loops on your hook.Yarn over and pull through both loop on hook to complete your first reverse sc (image 4), insert your hook into the next st to your right, remember you are working backwards (image 5-see where needle is pointing), repeat in each st (image 6).

Other patterns I think You’ll like

  • Free Simple Basket Pattern – click HERE
  • Free Coffee Cozy Patterns – click HERE
  • Free Hot Pad & Scrubby Pattern with Free Gift Tag Printable – click HERE
Crochet & Conversations

For an interactive group of fellow crochet enthusiast, I invite you to come and join my Facebook group.

Snap Closure Glasses Case – Free Crochet Pattern

Do you wear glasses? Whether you are like me and have aging eyes, have worn glasses most of your life or just protect your eyes from the sun, it is fun to have a cute handmade eye glasses case. Add a fun snap closer and our favorite craft of crochet, and you’ve got a perfect afternoon project.

A few years ago I turned the dreaded big 4-0! Honestly, life has been amazing after 40, with the exception of my eyesight. I have noticed I need to lean a little closer to see clearer. Then last week I renewed my drivers license and decided it is time for me to go see an eye doctor. Thankfully, we have an optometrist in the family.

Snap Pouch Glasses Case Pattern

Blue Light Reading Glasses

I don’t officially have a subscription for glasses so I have been relying on over the last year. Just a little magnification helps so much! Then, I started hearing about blue light glasses and the benefits of them.

Blue light blocking glasses can help to filter out a percentage of blue light and lessen eye fatigue when you’re working on your computer screen or using electronic devices. Say goodbye to digital eye strain with a pair of blue light blocking* glasses! Also available with magnified lenses, known as “blue light reading glasses”, for those seeking the benefits of both.

Check out how cute my glasses are! I love the Tortoise shell of the rims. I mean if you have to wear glasses, you better make them cute. Right.

blue light readers

Check out the entire collection of readers and blue light readers using the (affl link) button below:

Snap Pouch Glasses Case

How to make your Snap Closure Glasses Case

The snap closure on the glasses case makes it easy to slide your glasses in and out of the case. I used a quick and easy stitch that creates a thicker fabric to protect the glasses. I hope you enjoy learning something new and enjoy the tutorial.

The materials needed for the Glasses Case

  • Crochet Hook size G (4.00 mm)
  • Crochet Hook size H (5.00 mm)
  • Light Weight Yarn (#3) I used about 100 yards. In the sample shown, I used Lion Brand Vanna’s Style yarn
  • Metal Tape Measure – Tape should be ¾” wide (use an old one that you can re-purpose/upcycle if possible)
  • Tape – electrical tape is best, but duct tape or packaging tape will also work
  • Yarn Needle
  • Tin Snips or Old Scissors (cutting may dull the edges so don’t use your best pair)
Supplies for Glasses Case

Stitches & Abbreviations Used:

  • Ch = Chain
  • Sc = Single Crochet
  • FP = Front Post
  • St(s) = Stitch(es)
  • R = Row/Round

Completed Size of Glasses Case:

  • 3” opening and 7″ long, but instructions will allow you to customize the shape to fit any glasses

Pattern Notes

  • The pouch will be made while crocheting in the round working from the opening (top) down.
  • Beginning chain will not count as a stitch unless stated.
  • Gauge is very important when crocheting. However, in this design I will give you measurements to follow. Use these measurements to get the correct size of your finished glasses case.

Prep the Snap Closure

  • All glasses are different in size. It is a good idea to make your opening a minimum of 1 inch wider than your glasses. In this sample my glasses measure 2” so I made my opening 3”.
  • Cut 2 pieces of the tape measure 3” long (image shows just over 2″-follow the size noted in the above note for the size of your glasses).
  • Trim the sharp points so they are rounded, this will make them less likely to break through the tape and cut the yarn after construction.
  • Wrap the ends of the metal pieces with a sturdy tape. Electrical tape works best but you can use duct tape or packaging tape.
  • Set aside for use later.

Crocheting the Glasses Case

Using Hook G & Light Weight Yarn

Ch 32, making sure beginning chain is not twisted, join in first ch to form a ring (or chain as many chains as needed to equal the length of your prepared metal snap strips plus 2 stitches)

R1: Ch 1, sc in each ch around, join (32)

R2-4: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join (32)

At this point check to see if the rows are equal to the width of your tape. If they are then double your row count and add 1 more row (I met my width in 4 rows, therefore I will complete a total of 9 rows (*4 rows x 2 = 8 rows + 1 more row = 9 total rows) Make sure to adjust for your tape width.

After completing the 9 rows (or the number of rows needed *see notes above), fold the crochet piece in half. I liked having a little different look to the stitches so I folded mine so the back side of the sc rows was showing on the outside, this was just personal preference and you can fold either way you want.

Place one of the prepared metal pieces inside the fold. Make sure the curved side of the measuring tape is facing the outside of the case.

Single Crochet the snap strip into the fold by crocheting through the tops of the stitches from your last row AND through the beginning chain. Complete half of the row (16 stitches in my sample). Insert second prepared snap strip, again making sure the curved edge is facing outside. Continue to sc together around the rest of the row.

The opening snap of the eye glass case has been made. Just press on the edges and will snap open!

Change to Hook H (5.00 mm)

The body of the pouch will be made in rounds and made to the length of your glasses. Increase your hook size up two sizes

The first row will be the most difficult because the stitches from the snap section are tighter. Be patient and work slow, after the first round it is much easier.

Ch 1, FP single crochet around, do not join, you will work in continuous rounds.

Continue to FP single crochet in each stitch around until the length of your case (not counting the snap portion) measures the length of your glasses. Mine was about 7″ long.

Once the length has been reached, slst into the next stitch and fasten off leaving a long tail. Use that left over tail of yarn to sew/seam the bottom together and you are done!

More fun Crochet Tutorials Free from Sweet Potato 3

  • How to make a Twist Ear Warmer – click HERE
  • Dream Catcher Delight Wall Hanging – click HERE
  • Tree Garland and Gift Tags – click HERE
  • Hot Pads & Kitchen Scrubby with Gift Tag Printable – click HERE

Don’t miss out on any more Sweet Potato 3 Crochet Fun

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Join my facebook group SP3 Crochet & Conversations and share your finished project, we love seeing them and love support one another in our love of crochet.

Tree Garland + Gift Tag FREE Crochet Pattern

One of my favorite Christmas Traditions is the tree. Not the decorating, although that is a huge part of our holiday, but that fact that you are bringing in something beautiful, something living and something that fills your home with an aroma that is incomparable!

So, you may have guessed it. I am a huge fan of the pine tree. So, when I was thinking of a fun, cute, and quick holiday crochet pattern I could design and offer for free, this cute Tree Garland popped into my mind!

Tree Garland + Gift Tag Pin Image

I started off creating a bunch of pine trees in the traditional color of pine green and bright green. It was fantastic how quick they worked up but then I thought….. I need to add more color! So, again, I turned to my favorite things again and decided I loved the ombre look. And next thing I knew, I had a bunch of darling gift tags!

About the Tree pattern

I love to create patterns with texture so I always turn to my notebook of trusted stitches and sat down to play around. I fell in love a stitch that was “loopy” and made the layers of the branches whimsical and stand out.

Tree Gift Tag Ombre Sample

The “trunk” of the tree is a great place to add your own personality too. I love the look of the tassels in the garland but on the gift tags I kind of liked to add a bead with a smaller tassel to make it look longer. It really is just a personal choice. So be creative and have fun.

Materials Needed for the Tree pattern

  • Worsted Weight yarn (#4) – scrap amounts
  • Crochet Hook H (5.00 mm) – recommend a hook with no comfort handle
  • Measuring Tape
  • Scissors
  • Yarn Needle

Stitches + Abbreviations Used

  • Ch = Chain
  • Sc = Single Crochet
  • Slst = Slip Stitch
  • St(s) = Stitch(es)
  • Sp = Space
  • R = Row/Round

Finished Size of Crochet TREE

The completed tree will be approximately: 2 ½” wide X 3 ¼” high

For this tutorial, since the crochet piece is so small I do not have a gauge in this pattern. Instead, I recommend making 1 tree. If you want your tree larger, go up a hook size until you reach the desired height. If your finished tree is too large, go down a hook size accordingly

Christmas Tree Gift Tag Sample in Ombre

Notes about the Tree pattern

  • The final size of the tree may vary. The height that you customize your stitches can change the final size of your tree.
  • You can make your tree a solid color or change throughout the pattern. In the ombre sample, I changed yarn color at the beginning of rows 3, 5 & 7.
  • Other yarn weights may be used to make the tree pattern, be sure to adjust your hook size down one size from the recommend size on the yarn label.

Tree Garland + Gift Tag Pattern

The pattern is worked in a Tunisian crochet style. Each row will have a forward and a backwards pass. This is much easier than you think and does not require a special hook. Just follow the photo tutorials and you’ll be surprised and how much fun they are to make.

R1 forward: Ch 1, pull loop up about ¾” high, [yarn over, insert hook into st, pull up a loop about ¾” high], repeat [] 3 more times in same st, do not turn, 9 loops on your hook

Tree Row 1 Forward pattern

R1 return: yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook, [yarn over, pull through 3 loops on your hook], repeat [] 1 more time, yarn over, pull through last 4 loops on your hook, do not turn

Tree Row 1 Return of pattern

R2: Ch 1, sc in each space between sts from prior row, turn (3)

Tree Row 2 pattern

R3 forward: pull up a loop about ¾” high and ch 1, [yarn over, insert hook into st, pull up a loop about ¾’ high], repeat [] in same st, repeat [] in each st across repeating 2 times in last st, do not turn, 11 loops on hook

Tree Row 3 pattern

R3 return:  yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook, {yarn over, pull through 3 loops on your hook}, repeat {} 2 more times, yarn over, pull through last 4 loops on your hook, do not turn

R4: Ch 1, sc in each space between sts from prior row, turn (4)

Tree Row 4 pattern

R5 forward: pull up a loop about ¾” high and ch 1, [yarn over, insert hook into st, pull up a loop about ¾’ high], repeat [] in same st, repeat [] in each st across repeating 2 times in last st, do not turn, 13 loops on hook

R5 return:  yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook, {yarn over, pull through 3 loops on your hook}, repeat {} 3 more times, yarn over, pull through last 4 loops on your hook, do not turn

R6: Ch 1, sc in each space between sts from prior row, turn (5)

R7 forward: pull up a loop about ¾” high and ch 1, [yarn over, insert hook into st, pull up a loop about ¾’ high], repeat [] in same st, repeat [] in each st across repeating 2 times in last st, do not turn, 15 loops on hook

R7 return:  yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook, {yarn over, pull through 3 loops on your hook}, repeat {} 4 more times, yarn over, pull through last 4 loops on your hook, do not turn

R8: Ch 1, sc in each space between sts from prior row, turn (6)

R9: Ch 1, loosely slst in each st across, fasten off and weave in ends

Optional: add a tassel, fringe, bead or any other accessories to the center of the last row.

Blocking is not necessary, but sometimes I like to block just to give my crochet piece the best shape.

Blocking Tree Applique

You can then add your finished tree to a gift as a cute tag that everyone will love. Or you can string it on some yarn or cord to create a fun garland.

Tree Garland Crochet Pattern

If you enjoyed this Tutorial, check out the ones below:

More Crochet Fun

Follow Sweet Potato 3 on Facebook to see more pattern releases, sales and crochet fun, just click HERE.

However, if you would enjoy a more interactive group experience, you need to join my Crochet & Conversations facebook group, click HERE. It is a ton of fun and I encourage everyone to share their projects, WIPS (works in progress) and inspirations. Plus you get exclusive deals, are the first to see new releases, give input on designs and have opportunities to win patterns. Join now and get to know others who also enjoy the art of crochet.

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Everyday Spirit Wall Hanging Crochet Pattern & Tutorial

Wall Hangings with fringe are all the top trends in home decor right now and I love how these decor pieces showcase our Everyday Spirit! The whimsical charm with the modern single color is the perfect combination to add to any room.

The Everyday Spirit Wall Hanging combines the love of crochet and the look of the ever popular fringe wall decor. This is a fun design that can be made in a day and you can change up your colors with endless possible looks.

Everyday Spirit

Everyday Spirit Crochet + Photo Tutorials

The pattern features a full step by step tutorial to put all the pieces together. Basic crochet skills are required for the crochet pieces.

Supplies for the Wall Hanging

  • 10″ Metal Hoop, click HERE
  • 375 yards Worsted (#4) Weight Yarn
  • Crochet Hook G (4.00 mm)
  • Small Thread Crochet Hook to use as a tool (not for crochet, so the exact size is not necessary)
  • Scissors
  • Measuring Tape
Everyday Spirit Wall Hanging

Where to find the Everyday Wall Hanging pattern

Check out some other samples from a couple testers

Test by Brandi

Brandi is the crocheter behind Craft Creations by Brandi Aldrich on facebook and @brandialdrich on IG. Brandi said her granddaughter snatched this up as soon as she was finished. That is quite the compliment!

Everyday Spirit

Test completed by Michelle Wulf

Michelle is the crocheter at Magic Mommys Yarning on facebook and @wulfmichelle on IG. She does amazing work and I love how she incorporated multiple colors into her wall hanging.

Do you Love Wall Hangings check out a few more:

More Crochet Fun

Follow Sweet Potato 3 on Facebook to see more pattern releases, sales and crochet fun, just click HERE.

However, if you would enjoy a more interactive group experience, you need to join my Crochet & Conversations facebook group, click HERE. It is a ton of fun and I encourage everyone to share their projects, WIPS (works in progress) and inspirations. Plus you get exclusive deals, are the first to see new releases, give input on designs and have opportunities to win patterns. Join now and get to know others who also enjoy the art of crochet.

pattern group

Cascading Fringe Wall Hanging Tutorial & Kit

Wall Hangings with fringe are all the top trends in home decor right now and I love the simplicity of the look to the Cascading Fringe design.

I worked in collaboration with BluPrint to come up with a beginner level wall hanging. We decided on a neutral color scheme with blush tones and used basic supplies to create the look.

Hot Pad & Scrubby Crochet Tutorial with Printable

I love receiving handmade practical gifts and today I am going to show you just that. I am going to walk you through how to make a traditional hot pad and dish scrubby and I will give you a cute printable to make your gifts perfect.

Hot Pad Scrubby Crochet Tutorial with Printable

Hot Pad Crochet Tutorial

To make the hat pad, all you need is worsted weight yarn, a crochet hook K (6.5 mm), a yarn needle and some scissors. Gauge isn’t essential in making the hot pad but will affect your final size. It is important that your stitches are tight enough that the heat from the pans doesn’t go through, but keep in mind these will be double layered.

To begin, you will crochet your beginning chain and will want it to be the diagonal length of your hot pad. I want my final hot pad to measure about 7″ X 7″ square, and I am going to save you the lesson on math, I want my diagonal to measure about 9″.

  • Using your crochet hook K, chain 36
  • Sc in the 2nd chain from your hook and in each remaining chain to the end
  • do NOT join, you will work in continuous rounds
Hot Pad STitch Tutorial
  • Sc in the first sc and in each stitch around
  • Continue working sc’s in the round
Hot Pat Tutorial Row 5

Want to Include Stripes / Color Changes

Because the hotpad naturally folds at an angle, you will want to work your color changes in the stitch immediately before the seam/fold, instead of in the first stitch of each row.

This is best done if you just eyeball where the edge of the hotpad is and work your color change in the top of that stitch. If you are working only 1 row of color change, make sure you complete the entire round plus one more stitch.

Continue to work rounds of single crochets until the top of the row meets in the middle and lays nicely. There should be no space between the edges and the seam should not pucker either.

Sew the seams together using the Mattress stitch, working under both loops of the stitch. Work your yarn from the inside of the hot pat to the outside (see video below). After the seam is stitches close, secure with a knot and weave in all ends.

A set of hot pads is always nice to receive. So, I recommend making a second one that coordinates with your first hot pad.

Scrubby Crochet Tutorial

Scrubbies are so much easier than they were to make years ago. Thankfully, many yarn companies are making yarn that is made specifically for scrubbies. In the tutorial I used Red Heart Scrubby. With one skein of yarn you will be able to crochet at least 4 scrubbies.

  • Ch 2, in 2nd chain from hook crochet 8hdc, join in top of the 1st hdc to create a round
  • Begin with a ch 1, work 2hdc in each st around, join in top of 1st hdc (16 total stitches in round)
  • Ch 1, [2hdc in 1st st, hdc in next st], repeat [] around, join in top o f 1st hdc, fasten off (24 total stitches in round)
  • Repeat steps above again but to not fasten off after round 3
  • Hold back sides of both circle crochet pieces together
  • In this next round you will work through both pieces, crocheting them together
  • Ch 1, [2hdc in 1st st, hdc in each of the next 2 sts], repeat [] around, join in top of 1st hdc, fasten off and weave in all ends (32 total stitches in round)

Add Printable Tags for the Holidays

Now you have an amazing set of 2 hot pads and a scrubby! Get read to assemble them into the perfect holiday gift by adding a simple but catchy tag.

Are these not the cutest! You can download a copy of the tag on a regular 8 1/2 X 11 paper. There will be 6 tags per sheet. I do recommend you print them on cardstock to give them a little extra sturdiness.

Once you have printed the tags, cut them to size and use a hole punch on the double holes in the middle of the tag. Using scrap yarn and a needle, attach the tags to your 2 hot pads and scrubby. I show how simple this step is in the video tutorial below.

Print your tags by clicking HERE.

See how easy these gift sets are to assemble

I created a video below that will walk you through all the steps discussed above including:

  • How to make a traditional hot pad
  • How to make a perfect scrubby
  • Assembling your gift set with printable tag

If you enjoyed this Tutorial, check out the ones below:

More Crochet Fun

Follow Sweet Potato 3 on Facebook to see more pattern releases, sales and crochet fun, just click HERE.

However, if you would enjoy a more interactive group experience, you need to join my Crochet & Conversations facebook group, click HERE. It is a ton of fun and I encourage everyone to share their projects, WIPS (works in progress) and inspirations. Plus you get exclusive deals, are the first to see new releases, give input on designs and have opportunities to win patterns. Join now and get to know others who also enjoy the art of crochet.

pattern group

How to make a Twist Ear Warmer or Headband Tutorial

Have you been eyeing all the cute Twist Ear Warmer or Headbands? They seem to be everywhere and turn a basic Ear Warmer (or Headband) into a very cute accessory. Today, I am going to share how easy they are to make.

Twist Ear Warmer Tutorial

The technique used to make the twist ear warmer / headband is simply in the way you sew the crochet ends pieces together. You can use this technique with most crochet patterns.

I recently did a stitch tutorial for the mini bean stitch and included instructions on how to make this fun ear warmer. You can see the step by step tutorial by clicking this LINK HERE. Then come back here to sew it up with a twist.

Mini Bean Twist Ear Warmer

How to make a Twist in your Ear Warmers

You will need to finish your ear warmer to the correct length. Most adult ear warmers will be about 20″ long, but may be different due to how much stretch the stitches allow for. Follow the recommendation in the pattern you are following.

Instead of folding the ends together and sewing them up in a straight seam, fold each crochet end in half. Once they are both folded in half, nestle them inside each other and fold together.

Using a tapestry needle, you will sew the ends together. Make sure you work the top of the stitches for all 4 layers, working across the entire row ends. When you reach the end, secure with a knot and weave in your ends.

Turn your headband right side out and you are done. The Twist is sewn in and lays perfectly.

Twist Ear Warmer Tutorial

Watch A Step By Step Tutorial

If you are like me, watching a tutorial is very helpful, so I created this YouTube video just for you. Click HERE to watch it on YouTube and subscribe, or just watch below:

Share your Twist Ear Warmers or Headbands

I would love to see your twist ear warmer you made, please come and join my , Crochet & Conversations Facebook Group. It is a fun and engaging group where you can share all things crochet related, just click HERE and ask to join.

Sweet Potato 3

Mini Bean Stitch and Ear Warmer Instructions

One of my favorite stitches to crochet is the mini bean stitch. I love how it works up quick, has a rich texture to it and leaves your crocheted fabric plush and soft. Seriously, what could be better than this?

The mini bean stitch is pretty simple to learn. Today I am going to show you exactly how to crochet it step by step. Then, I will give you a way to practice your new stitch by working up a fun Ear Warmer.

Mini Bean Stitch Ear Warmer Pattern

How to Begin your Ear Warmer

I will start off by walking you through the stitch step by step. Then, at the end of the tutorial you can watch my YouTube video to make sure you understand each step correctly.

Use a Crochet Hook I (5.50 mm) and about 100 yards of worsted weight yarn. I used Red Heart Amore in the color, restful, and love how soft the headband came out. In fact, I was able to make 2 headbands with 1 skein of yarn.

Mini Bean Twist Ear Warmer

Gauge is not essential in this pattern but make sure your stitches are not so tight that the fabric is stiff. If you want to match my gauge it is as follows: using crochet hook I, 9 mini bean stitches and 14 rows resulted in a 4 inch square.

Begin the Ear Warmer Pattern

  • You will want to begin working with an odd number of stitches.
  • Begin with a beginning chain of 20.
  • Single Crochet in the 2nd chain from your hook and each chain to the end of the row and turn.
  • For Row 2, single crochet in each stitch across the row and turn.

How to Crochet the Mini Bean Stitch

  • Always begin your row with a chain 1, insert your hook into the first stitch and pull up a loop.
  • Yarn over and insert your hook back into the same stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop.
  • You will now have 4 loops on our hook, yarn over and pull through all 4 loops on your hook.
  • Chain 1, skip next stitch, repeat bean stitch in next stitch
  • Repeat across entire row.
  • For the 2nd row of mini bean stitches, you will chain 1 and turn.
  • Complete a mini bean in top of the mini bean from the last row, skip the chain and work the next mini bean in top of the mini bean of the prior row.
  • Continue working mini bean stitch rows until your ear warmer reaches 19 1/2 inches long

See How to Crochet the Mini Bean Stitch

If you are like me, watching a tutorial is very helpful, so I created this YouTube video just for you. Click HERE to watch it on YouTube and subscribe, or just watch below:

How to Finish Ear Warmers & Sew Twisted Seam

  • Crochet 2 more rows of single crochets and then fasten off leaving a long tail of yarn you will use to sew the ends together.
  • To get the “twist” in the headband, follow this easy tutorial you can see by CLICKING HERE.

This is another fun part in making the mini bean ear warmers. I put together a tutorial on how to sew the ends together to give it that perfect twist. Click HERE to watch a quick tutorial and finish your project.

Crochet from a Graph: learn today

I am hosting a LIVE session in my Crochet & Conversations group about how to crochet from a chart! That’s right. I have received so many requests regarding this topic. I finally decided it was time to sit down and do some show & tell.

Where can I watch the LIVE video?

The Facebook LIVE will be hosted in my Crochet & Conversations group on Facebook. This is a fun and interactive group of fellow crocheters. We chat about, post about, and see everything about crochet. We support one another and cheer one another on as we learn new things. That is why this session will be hosting in this supportive group. You can join now by clicking HERE.

pattern group

What do I need?

The LIVE session will be visual based. But, you are welcome to work along with me as I show the details. I will be working slow so you can see each step of the way. If this is your very first time trying to crochet from a chart it may be helpful to just watch and then watch the replay and work along side me.

All you will need to work along with me is some small amounts of yarn. A smaller crochet hook, I will probably be using a Crochet Hook H (5.00 mm) and a crochet graph to work off of. I have created a small graph that goes with the upcoming holiday to practice with. Click this link to download and print an easy crochet Jack-O-Lantern graph to try out.

Let me know how it goes

I would love to hear how your progress is going with this new skill set. There are so many amazing patterns that are worked using charts. Knowing how to crochet from a graph will allow you to crochet from so many more patterns, you will be very thankful once you have it mastered.

Want to Try a Bigger Project?

One of my best selling patterns uses this crocheting from a graph method. It also will use the same stitches that I showed in my LIVE tutorial so you can see how I worked it up. Check out my Deerly Beloved Blanket by clicking this LINK.

Deerly Beloved Blanket

Braided Beanie – A Unique & Fun Crochet Pattern

Designing hats has always been so much fun, but it does get harder to come up with an idea that is different from what is already out in the crochet pattern world. However, when I stumbled upon a unique, eye catching new-to-me stitch I knew I had to incorporate it into my next hat design: The Braided Beanie.


Check out that Braid! have you ever crocheted anything like that? This is a stitch you will want to try and I included a photo tutorial AND a video to help you out. It really is pretty easy, but is probably easier to do after you watch how it is completed.

Add Pops on Color in the braided beanie

I personally love how you can made a simple beanie really pop with adding bold colors in the braid. You can coordinate the colors or select bold colors, whatever you like, I promise it will be amazing, check out a few I made below.

Crochet Pattern for Braided beanie

About the braided beanie pattern

The Braided Beanie pattern comes in sizes for: child, youth/ladies, adult/men. The beanie is made in a traditional worsted weight yarn. The pattern require the use of 2 crochet hook sizes. One size will be used for the main body of the hat and a larger hook for the braided single crochet rounds. The crochet hooks sizes needed are I (5.50 mm) and K (6.50 mm).

Pick out some fun coordinating colors with your favorite winter jacket or school colors. If you love poms on hats, it is fun to add the colors of the braid to the pom, or fur poms are always a great addition too.

Is the Braided Single Crochet going to be too hard to crochet?

Heck no! I have detailed written instructions, along with photo tutorials AND a video to walk you through the steps. Keep in mind, the braid is made in only 2 rows, after that, the pattern is easy peasy!

Texture in the Main Body of the Hat

The main body of the Braided Beanie has a fun textured stitch. One of my favorite parts of this stitch is that it works up quick (has the same height as a double crochet) and creates a nice thin fabric. If you haven’t worked the Herringbone Double Crochet, check it out and give it a try. I believe it will be a new favorite:

#HATNOTHATE Is An Anti-Bullying Campaign.

Have you heard about this amazing campaign that supports and encourages everyone to stand up to bullying.

We ask knitters and crocheters to make handmade blue hats and donate them to our cause. In October, National Bullying Prevention Month, we distribute the hats to schools across the country for students to wear, empowering them to stand up to bullying.

I encourage you to read more and get involved with the #hatnothate campaign, get more information HERE.

The Crochetmous Crew is an inspiring group of crocheters and designers that are always doing wonderful things, join them HERE. They are big supporters of the #hatnothate campaign and I am excited to participate this year. I made a Braided Beanie in all blue just for the campaign.

Braided Beanie

Where to find the pattern

  • Etsy shop – click HERE
  • Ravelry shop – click HERE.

Have you seen the Braided Single Crochet Pocket Pillow?

If you love the look of the braided single crochet make sure to check out my other pattern using the stitch. These pocket pillows are fun, useful and are great to have at home, on your couch or bed. They are great to have in your RV or other places that need lots of storage. The pillows are also a fun way to give gifts, just fill those pockets with goodies!

Braided Sc

Check out details about the Pocket Pillows HERE.

Crochet Pattern by SP3

Dream Catcher Delight – Free Crochet Pattern

My daughter has always had a difficult time getting to sleep at night. We have tried many different routines but when the lights go out, she thinks she will have a bad dream. I was so excited when she came home from school one day and told me one of her friends got a dream catcher and she was sure this would fix her bedtime worries.

*unknown source

This sparked an idea and I knew I had to make one for her the next day. This was such a fun and easy project that literally took an afternoon. I am excited to share this tutorial with all of you today.

Sweet Potato 3

Dream Catchers Delight Tutorial

For this pattern I used some beautiful cotton yarn by Paint Box, but any scrap yarn will do. Here is a list of materials needed:

Worsted Weight Scrap Yarn (sample was made from Paintbox Cotton):

Colors used in sample: Lipstick Pink (45 yards), Blush Pink (45 yards), Seafoam Blue (8 yards), Dolphin Blue (12 yards), Dusty Rose (8 yards)

Crochet Hook G (4.5 mm)

Embroider Hoop 6” or 15cm

Scissors & Yarn Needle

Dream Catcher Delight Materials

Gauge: gauge checks will be given throughout the pattern.

Begin with color 1 (center of dream catcher)

Ch 4, join in 1st ch to form a loop

R1: Ch 1, 8sc in loop, join in fist sc

R2: Ch 2, in same st as join work dc4tog, ch 4, [in next st dc5tog, ch 4], repeat [] to end, fasten off and weave in ends (8 puffs made)

Gauge check: measures 2” across center

Sweet Potato 3

Using color 2, join in any chain loop of R2

R3: Ch 1, 7sc in each ch loop around, join in 1st sc

Sweet Potato 3

R4: Slst in next 3 sts (you should be in the 4th sc of the 7sc in the loop), ch 12, slst in same st as last slst, [slst in next 7 sts, ch 12, slst in same st as last slst], repeat [] around, slst in next 3 sts (you should be at the beginning slst), fasten off and weave in ends (8 ch spaces made)

Gauge check; measures 3” across not including the chain loops

Sweet Potato 3

Using color 2 (same as last section), join in any chain loop from R4

R5: Ch 1, 10sc in chain loop, ch 2, [10sc in next ch loop, ch 2], repeat [] around, join in top of 1st sc

Gauge check: measures 5” across

Sweet Potato 3

R6: Slst in next 3 sts, [ch 2, skip next 2 sts, slst in next st, ch 6, skip next 8 sts, slst in next st], repeat [] around, join in slst before first ch 2 sp, fasten off and weave in ends

Gauge check: measures just under 6” across (this must be just under 6”, if it is more than 6” then your hoop will be too small, the crochet piece needs to stretch slightly to look nice)

Sweet Potato 3

Using color 1

Join into any ch 2 sp but also join around embroidery hoop, in the next round you will be crocheting around the embroidery hoop and in the ch sps from R6

R7: [4sc in ch 2 sp, 12sc in ch 6 sp], repeat [] around,

Note: this row is a bit awkward to crochet, I found it easiest to hold the hoop perpendicular to my body and kind of crochet sideways, but however you can do it, will work.

Sweet Potato 3

Almost Done!

Optional: if you feel like the edge (top of sc around hoop) are not clean and even this row will help,  turn work and slst in top of each sc from R7, fasten off and weave in ends

Sweet Potato 3

Add the Fringe

Cut 10 strands of yarn in 5 different colors. Each strand was approximately 28” long.

Sweet Potato 3

Fold each strand in half and join at the fold, attach around the yarn wraps around the hoop.

Sweet Potato 3

Once all fringe has been attached, comb straight and trim to a “v”.

Sweet Potato 3

Make 2 Flowers

For the first flower I used Blue yarn and followed this beautiful pattern called the May Rose, link HERE. Take note that this pattern is in UK terms so remember the stitches in US terms are different, the difference is referenced in the pattern.

For the second flower I used pink yarn and followed the same May Rose pattern but only began with a beginning chain of 20. I then worked 3 large petals, 3 medium petals and 3 small petals. 

Dream Catcher Delight Tutorial

Make 3 Leaves

Ch 6, sl st in 2nd ch from hk. Sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, 4 dc in next ch, rotate and work along bottom of foundation ch, 4dc in first ch (same ch as last dc made in), dc in next ch, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch, sl st in next, fasten off.

Sweet Potato 3

Make Swirled Tassel

Ch 40, sc in 5th ch from hook (the skipped ch 4 will create a loop, this loop  will be where you attach the tassel later in the pattern), 2sc in each ch to end, fasten off.

To add tassel at end cut 16 pieces of yarn about 10” long, pull yarn pieces through chain 4 loop at end of tassel and fold in half

Using a contrasting color of yarn, wrap around tassel just below fold. I wrapped around about 4 times and securely tie tight, trim ends of tassel even.

Optional: add a charm and/or beads to tassel

Dream Catcher Tutorial


Attach blue flower on left side of dream catcher, where the fringe begins.

Sew pink flower just below blue flower.

Sew one leaf to the right of the pink flower, follow the same angle as the hoop,  

Sew another leaf about ¾” above the blue flower also following the same angle as the hoop.

Sew last leaf under the petals of the blue flower. Angle it straight up covering the base of the last leaf sewn on.

Attach tassel to the dreamcatcher on about 1” from the fringe edge on the right side.

Tip: If the fringe on the dream catcher is not straight it may help to steam it while it is hanging.

Sweet Potato 3

I hope you enjoyed this crochet Dream Catcher tutorial. Make Subscribe by email {in upper right column on blog} so you don’t miss future tutorials or pattern releases. Then come join my SP3 Crochet & Conversations group on facebook, we will be started a CAL soon teaching you Tapestry Crochet, I hope to see you in there.



Free Rock the Block Blanket Pattern & Tutorial

I love learning new stitches with fun textures! When those stitches work up quick it is an added bonus. I know I am not the only one. Earlier this year I released a section of a CAL and everyone kept talking about how much they LOVE the stitch. I immediately knew I had to share the block stitch with everyone.

Rock the Block Blanket

This specific block stitch has so many names that I am just calling it the Rock the Block Blanket. You will also hear it called the grid stitch, boucan stitch, leaping stripes and many more… but essentially, it is one of many different types of block stitch.

Today I am going to share with you how to work up this fun stitch and give you the pattern to work up this fun blanket in any size you want! I will also show you how to get over 6 different looks with this simple stitch pattern. So make sure you stay with me to the end.

Another HUGE advantage of working this block stitch is that the edges of the blanket are left clean. There is NO need to work an edge, WaHOO!!! I can hear you all shouting with JOY right now!

One Block Stitch / 6 Different Looks

Now this is my favorite part. Check out all the different looks you can achieve by working the block stitch. As you see all these versions, just start imagining the colors and patterns you can create as you make your Rock the Block Blanket.

Rock the Block Solid Rock the Block

Rock the Block Rock the Block

Rock the Block Rock the Block

Rock the Block Pattern

What Size?

First you need to decide what size of blanket you would like to make and make a note of the width and length. Here is a good visual for blanket sizes I found online (unfortunately I don’t know who the image belongs to so I cannot give proper credit).

Blanket Size

What Pattern or How many Colors?

Yep, you have to pick one of them. I know it can be difficult but decide if you want to use one color, 2 colors or more. Then decide if you want to make your blanket with a specific pattern (1 row repeats, 2 row repeats, random, etc.), see the images earlier in this post to help you decide or watch this tutorial to see each one is worked.

Begin your Project:

Crochet a foundation row in multiples of 4 sc until the desired width is reached.

R1: Ch 1, sc in next 3 sts, [ch 2, skip next 2 sts, sc in next 2 sts], repeat [] until 5 sts remain, ch 2, skip next 2 sts, sc in next 3 sts, turn

R2: Ch 4 (counts as hdc + ch 2), skip next 3 sts, [dc in next 2 skipped sts from 2 rows prior, ch 2, skip next 2 sts], repeat [] to last st, hdc in last st, turn Note: Dc in this and following rows will be worked around/over the chain sp of the prior row, ch sp will be covered by the dc.

R3: Ch 2 (counts as a hdc), dc in next 2 skipped sts from 2 rows prior, [ch 2, skip next 2 sts, dc in next 2 skipped sts from 2 rows prior], repeat [] to last st, hdc in 2nd ch of beg ch, turn

Repeat R2 & R3 until desired length is reached

Final Row: Ch 1, sc in next 3 sts, [dc in next 2 skipped sts from 2 rows prior, sc in next 2 sts of current row], repeat [] to last st, sc in last st, fasten off and weave in all ends

Rock the Block

I hope you love crocheting the Rock the Block Blanket as much as I did. In case you wanted to know how I worked the sample blanket up, below are my specific notes. I made this blanket as a stash buster, using up some of the yarn in my closet. I used Red Heart Super Saver yarn the a Crochet Hook I.

Begin with C1 (Light Grey) Complete R1-R15

Switch to C2 (Aruba) Complete R16-R32

Switch to C3 (Turqua) Complete R33-R35

Switch to C4 (Orchid) Complete R36-R38

Switch to C5 (Aran) Complete R39-R49

Switch to C4 (Orchid) Complete R50-R52

Switch to C6 (Amethyst) Complete R53-R65

Switch to C3 (Turqua) Complete R66-R68

Switch to C4 (Orchid) Complete R69-R73

Switch to C1 (Light Grey) Complete R74-R90

Switch to C3 (Turqua) Complete R91-R93

Switch to C2 (Aruba) Complete R94-R108

Switch to C4 (Orchid) Complete R109-R111

Switch to C3 (Turqua) Complete R112-R114

Switch to C5 (Aran) Complete R115-R128

Switch to C6 (Amethyst) Complete R129-R139

Switch to C1 (Light Grey) Complete R140-R156 + Final Row

And that sums it all up! If you give this pattern a try, please share your final project on Sweet Potato 3’s facebook page so everyone can see how beautiful it really is.



Sleep Tight Teddy Bear Set – Crochet Pattern

Are you searching for the cutest baby blanket crochet pattern? Your search can stop, because you just stumbled upon it! The Sleep Tight Teddy Bear set is all you hoped for with fun textures and the cuteness of cuddly sleeping teddy bears.

Crochet baby blankets are one of the top handmade gifts given to new moms. Blankets are often made to coordinate with the theme of the nursery. All nurseries are set up for a good sleeping environment, therefore the sleepy animals all nestled into bed goes well in any babies room.

Sleep Tight Teddy Bear

The Sleep Tight Set isn’t just the blanket, it also comes with a fun size lovey and coordinating Teddy Bear stuffy. All 3 pieces make a complete gift.

the Sleep Tight Textures and design

The cuteness of the tucked in animals is what really makes this design so darling. But, the rich texture also make this crochet design stand out above the rest. The braided “v” stitch is unique and requires some alternating of the crochet piece to create. There is a video tutorial (see further down in post) to help you master the stitch.

Between the braided “v” is another fun texture that compliments the blankets design. A more simple alternating post stitch creates a beautiful look.

Sleep Tight Teddy Bear Lovey

Make a coordinating snuggly teddy bear.

I know these little sleepy teddy bears on the blanket are too cute. So now you have to add a snuggly friend to go with them. The Sleep Tight Teddy Bear is a perfect size, completed it measures about 13″ tall.

Sleep Tight Teddy Bear

Video Tutorial for Texture Braided V Stitch

To help you out with the beautiful texture that makes this blanket so rich, I created a tutorial:

Where to Find the Sleep Tight Teddy Bear Set Patterns

  • Ravelry Sleep Tight Teddy Bear Set (all 3 designs): click HERE
  • Etsy Sleep Tight Teddy Bear Set (all 3 designs): click HERE

Update: Teddy Bear Colors

Over the years I have had many request for the colors I used for the individual teddy bears, I mostly used yarn from my stash pile. But, I tracked them down and have listed them below. The main colors of the blanket are included in the pattern.

  • 1st Bear: main color “grey” / muzzle “oatmeal” / nose & eyes “black”
  • 2nd Bear: main color “cornmeal” / muzzle “egg shell” / nose “warm brown” / eyes “mocha”
  • 3rd Bear: main color “warm brown” / muzzle “carrot” / nose “egg shell” / eyes “mocha”
  • 4th Bear: main color “oatmeal” / muzzle “buff” / nose & eyes “mocha”
  • 5th Bear: main color “charcoal” / muzzle “grey” / nose “warm brown” / eyes “black” with “warm brown” lashes
Sleep Tight Teddy Bear

New Coordinating Designs

With the popularity of the Sleep Tight Teddy Bear set I decided to expand the set and designed a coordinating pillow. A fun pillow that isn’t just cute but useful. I added a fun pocket that you can put your favorite teddy bear book in or nestle the teddy bear stuffy in.

One of the most common sets to give as a give is a blanket with a coordinating hat. Therefore, I am happy to share with you the Sleep Tight Teddy Bear Hat.

Sleep Tight Teddy Bears or Other Animals…

Do you love the blanket but know the nursery isn’t teddy bears. Well, you can customize the blanket with any other animal appliques. Over the years I have enjoyed seeing so many of these blankets that have been made with other themes.

Darling Animal Appliques

Other Newborn Blankets you may Love

  • Farm Animal Baby Blanket, you can find HERE
  • Forest Friends Blanket, Pillow and Wall Hanging, you can find HERE
  • Flower Petal Blanket, you can find HERE

How to Crochet Foundation Stitches: Single, Half Double & Double

Have you heard of Foundation Crochet Stitches? Wondering what all the hype is? Well, today I am going to show you why I love beginning crochet project with Foundation Stitches.

Benefits of Foundation Crochet Stitches

Avoid the Dreaded Beginning Chain: How often do you begin a project (say a blanket) and the first row begins with a crazy amount of chains, like 250? When I see this, my mind immediately goes to the thought of how much I dread working my row of single crochets (or hdc, dc, tc) into each and everyone of those chains.

Quick: Well, for me, working into all those beginning chains is the worst part of a crochet project. It simply takes too long and if not done perfect can effect the final crochet piece. I want a quick solution! When crocheting a project with a Foundation row that beginning row will work up much quicker. It may take some practice, but trust me, it is so much quicker!

Stretch & Flexibility: Back to that beginning chain again (LOL-can you tell I am not a fan), not only does it take forever, but you have to have every chain the exact tension or a loop will stand out like a wine stain on your white rug. You also have to make sure you chain loose enough to avoid the inevitable tight bottom that causes your beautiful blanket to veer or fan out (caused from the beginning chain being too tight).

I need a solution to that beginning chain and the Foundation Crochet Stitches are the answer!

If you found this tutorial useful please share it with others, pin it for quick reference and follow along on my blog (subscribe by email in the right column) so you don’t miss any other quick tips, tutorials and pattern releases! Also, join me on Facebook for lot’s of crochet fun!