Free Crochet Pocket Hot Pad Tutorial

Can you believe we are only 72 days away from Christmas (as of October 14th anyway). It is crazy how quick these next few months will go. A couple years ago I shared a hot pad tutorial with printables that everyone loved making for gifts during the holidays. So this year I put a spin on it and am sharing a Pocket Hot Pad Crochet Pattern.

Pocket Hot Pad

I love to have a stash of small gifts to give. Everyone always needs last minute gifts for those that happened to not make the gift list during the hustle and bustle of shopping. But, we still want to recognize them and gift them something. Therefore, having a stack of small useful gifts in your stash is helpful and convenient.

Crochet Hot Pads Make Great Gifts

Crochet hot pads are one of those gifts everyone, and I mean everyone, LOVES. Plus they can be hard to find for most people that don’t crochet. So, gifting hot pads is a great handmade gift that will be appreciated. Check out my traditional hot pad and dish scrubby pattern that also has a free printable gift tag by clicking HERE.

Because that last design was so popular I wanted to create another hot pad with a different spin on it. I created another FREE hot pad tutorial, but this time it features a handy pocket! Everyone loves pockets, plus it makes an adorable way to gift goodies!

Pocket Hot Pad

But, before I get to the details about the Pocket Hot Pad crochet pattern, I want to share with you a great resource for more fun stash buster projects that make great last minute gifts.

The 2021 Holiday Stashdown CAL

Every Monday and Thursday from October 4 through December 16, 2021, a free crochet pattern from a different designer will be shared. Each pattern will be a one-skein project, or a stashbuster/scrappy project, so you can work from your own existing yarn stash to make a great winter holiday gift, decoration, or wrap. If you’d like to go ahead and buy some yarn just for the project, we won’t stop you! We love yarn as much as you do.

Holiday Stashdown CAL

Plus at the end of the CAL there is a huge giveaway so don’t forget to enter in this post on Underground Crafter by 11:59 p.m. on Friday, December 31, 2021! Enter HERE.

How to Participate in the Stashdown CAL

  • You can join in by crocheting the featured patterns as you have time.
  • Share your progress and post pictures of your finished projects. Tag your projects and posts #CALCentralCrochet and #HolidayStashdownCAL on all social media.
  • If you’d like to chat with other crocheters, join the CAL Central Crochet Facebook group, or visit this thread in the CAL Central Ravelry group.
  • By the end of the CAL, you’ll have up to 22 gifts, decorations, or wrap projects for the winter holidays.
  • Visit Underground Crafter to learn more about the prizes, enter the end-of-CAL giveaway, and to get links to each Holiday Stashdown CAL pattern as it is released.

About the Pocket Hot Pad

The design of the hot pad is created with a stitch that practically crochets a double thickness so there is no need for a double layer. This is a big time saver. The pattern includes 2 sizes and can be made with or without a pocket on it. But, my favorite part is the cute little hanging loop in the corner!

Pocket Hot Pad

Materials Needed

  • Crochet Hook Size I (5.50mm)
  • Worsted (#4) Weight Yarn in 2 colors – these were so much fun to make I made a few samples to show you- you can check out the yarn details below:
  • Large Red sample – Premier Anti Pilling Everyday Worsted
    • Main Color (Burgundy) ~ 120 yards (less than 1 skein)
    • Contrasting Color (Cream) ~ 30 yards (less than 1 skein or scrap)
  • Small Blue sample – Premier Anti Pilling Everyday Worsted
    • Main Color (Quiet Blue) ~ 100 yards (less than 1 skein)
    • Contrasting Color (Admiral Blue) ~ 25 yards (less than 1 skein or scrap)
  • Small with No Pocket Gold sample – Premier Anti Pilling Everyday Worsted
    • Solid Color (Mustard) ~ 95 yards (less than 1 skein)
  • Measuring Tape
  • Yarn Needle
  • Scissors

Stitches Used

  • Ch = Chain
  • Slst = Slip Stitch
  • Sc = Single Crochet
  • Dc = Double Crochet
  • ThermalDc = Thermal Double Crochet (photo tutorial & video tutorials are below in this post)
  • ReversePuff = Reverse Puff Stitch (photo tutorial & video tutorial are below in this post)
  • BL = Back Loop

Gauge

Gauge will be checked while making the pattern. However, gauge isn’t essential unless you want the final size to be exact. It is essential that your stitches are even throughout the pattern and tight so heat doesn’t transfer through to your fingers too quickly. If your stitches are not tight, change hook to smaller size until this is achieved.

Pocket Hot Pad Size Comparison

Pocket Hot Pad Size

7” square (blue sample)
9” square (burgundy sample)

Pattern Notes

  • The pattern has 2 sizes. Instructions are written for the smaller size with larger size in parenthesis.
  • The hot pad is made in 2 pieces, a front and back that are then stitched together.
  • Do not count the beginning chain as a stitch.
  • When the pattern states to repeat, repeat what is stated in the brackets [ ].

Main piece of the Hot Pad Pattern

Begin by making the back of the hot pad (this is the full square piece) and if using 2 colors of yarn use your main color of yarn.

R1: Ch 25 (31), sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch to end, turn (24, 30)

R2: Ch 1, working in BL only for this row, dc in each st across, turn (24, 30)

Small Size Measures 6″ Wide / Large Size Measures 8″ Wide

Row 2 Measurement

R3: Ch 1, ThermalDc in each st across, turn (24, 30) Note: the first couple rows of the thermal stitch it is easier to rotate your work instead of turning, this allows you to see your stitch plaement. After a couple rows have been crocheted, a traditional turn works great. If this is confusing you can watch my video tutorial below.

  • Thermal DC
    This image only shows the hook placement for the first step.
  • yarn over, insert hook into the back loop
  • insert hook into the unworked loop from prior row
  • pull up a loop
  • complete dc by yarn over pull through 2 loops on hook, yarn over pull through remaining 2 loops on hook-repeat this process in the next loops

Thermal Double Crochet tutorial

https://youtu.be/HzY7in-bZIk

Continue to repeat R3 until you have crocheted a total of 10 rows. This is when you should/can do a gauge check, your height for both the small and larger size should measure 3″ high.

Gauge Check

Repeat R3 until measures 6” (8”) high or until the height matches the width

Final Row: Ch 1, in each st across sc through both loops of stitch AND the BL (unworked loop) of corresponding st from the prior row, fasten off and weave in ends (24, 30)

Make The Front Pocket for the Hot Pad (optional)

Repeat R1-R3 of the Hot Pad

Repeat R3 until measures 4” (6”) high or until the height is 2” short of the hot pad height

Switch to contrasting color

Final R1: Ch 1, in each st across sc through both loops of last stitch AND the BL (unworked loop) from the prior row, do not turn

Note: if you are right handed work next row from left to right / if you are left handed work the next row from right to left

Final R2: Ch 1, see above note, [skip st, yarn over, insert hook into next st from the right of your hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, insert hook into same st, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through all 5 loops on your hook, ch to close], repeat [ ] until 2 sts remain, skip next st, slst into next st, fasten off and weave in ends.

  • Working from left to right, skip first st, yarn over, insert hook into next st
  • and pull up a loop
  • yarn over, insert hook and pull up another loop, 5 loops on hook
  • yarn over, pull through all loops on hook, ch to close
  • Skip next st, yarn over
  • insert into the next st, pull up a loop
  • yarn over, pull up a loop
  • yarn over, pull through all 5 loops on hook, ch 1 to close
  • Reverse Puff Stitch
    repeat pattern to end, slst in last st.

Video Tutorial for the Reverse Puff Stitch

https://youtu.be/x6W2OIowynI

Stitching Pocket & Border of Hot Pad

  • 1st Step: If you did not make a pocket, skip to step 2. Place the pocket on top of the hot pad. Single crochet the pieces together working through both the hot pad and the pocket. Join with a slip stitch in the lower left corner, chain 1, working an even number of stitch on each side sc in each row end and/or st around (working 3 sc in the corners), do not count these corner 3 sc in your even number of stitches, join in top of the first sc, do not turn.
  • Adding Pocket
  • 2nd Step: Begin the left side reverse puff stitch: Ch 1, Reverse Puff along the first side (left side working from bottom towards the top) until you reach the 3sc corner. 

Create the Hanging loop

  • 3rd Step: Reference photos below: Slst into 1st sc of the corner, ch 18 (same for both sizes), skip next st, slst in next st, turn, ch 1 and work 20sc in ch sp, slst into same st as beginning slst, turn, (if this transition is not the cleanest it is okay-it will be covered up when we wrap the base of the loop) slst into each sc in loop, slst into same st as slst in 3rd corner sc.
  • 3. Slst into 1st sc of the corner
  • ch 18, skip next st, slst in next st
  • turn, ch 1 and work 20sc in ch sp
  • slst into same st as beginning slst, turn, slst into each sc in loop
  • slst into same st as slst in 3rd corner sc
  • 4th Step: Repeat the Reverse Puff around the remaining 3 sides & corners of the hot pad, join in the beginning st of the round, fasten off and weave in ends.  
  • 5th Step: Wrap the base of the loop about 20 times, secure with a knot in the back and weave in the ends into the stitches of the border.

A Traditional Hot Pad, Dish Scrubby and Gift Printable

I mentioned in my earlier post that I have a tutorial for a traditional hat pad. That same tutorial includes a dish scrubby and a super cute printable for gift giving during the Christmas Season.

Hot Pad Dish Scrubby Printable
Link to Hot Pad, Dish Scrubby Pattern + Printable

Pocket Hot Pad Samples

I wanted to share how cute some of the hot pads that my pattern testers finished. They always do such an amazing job! Their samples show how different you can make this pattern. Some demonstrate what it looks like with no pocket, or no hanging loop, solid color or multi-colored. Each one is unique and handmade with love.

This coordinating set was a Test by Judy
  • I love the display in this test by Trudy, shows how you can make it into a gift!
  • A no pocket & single color version in the test by Tanya.
  • Showing details in the test by Sarah, love how defined her reverse puff stitch is.
  • Nancy decided she didn’t want the hanging loop and it is still useful and looks great.
  • A very fun and colorful test by Michelle W
  • Test by Linda
  • Test by Christina

A Customized Crochet Woven Basket / Pot Holder Pattern

Crocheting home décor items are a perfect way to showcase your love for working with yarn. However, it can be challenging to find modern designs that add a little texture and warmth without making your display to cluttered. The Woven Basket/Pot Holder is just that, it doesn’t add an extra object (clutter), it just adds that missing piece of texture you’ve been longing for.

I created a full tutorial that will walk you through how to customize this design to suit your need. It can be made as a plant pot cover, for any sized plant, or you can create a shallow basket as a catch all. You could even crochet it smaller to work as a crochet hook holder or can cozy. If you can think of a fun idea, this tutorial will work!

Woven Basket Design

The Accident that lead to the woven basket design

I had a plant that was displayed in my entryway. One afternoon my daughter was goofing off with her brothers and threw something (I honestly can’t even remember what it was) and it bounced off one of the boys, hit the plant which crashed to the floor. The pot completely shattered. Now, all I had was a cute plant with an ugly Styrofoam base.

pant base

I had some leftover home decor yarn from a project I had previously worked on (a whole book on home décor you can find it HERE… link coming soon) and thought the yarn would be fun to use to create a new base for the plant.

The Woven Look of the Stitch

When I stumble upon a new stitch my mind usually starts to buzz with ideas on how to incorporate it into a new design. When I saw this gorgeous woven stitch, I knew right away it had be worked into a basket design. Isn’t this stitch amazing?

Woven Basket Stitch

Materials Needed

Honestly, this is the fun part about woven basket design. The pattern is designed so you can customize it to the size you want. I encourage you to go to your yarn stash and grab the color of yarn you really want to use. Don’t worry about the weight of the yarn, just estimate if you will have enough. I made 3 samples, seen below, in the next paragraph I will let you know how much yarn I used for each one.

Woven Basket Pattern

The short basket that I left empty (we use it as a catch all for keys) uses Berroco Comfort Yarn (color: 9709). This yarn was in my stash and was left over from my Bella Borsetta Clutch pattern, you can find that by clicking HERE. The Berroco yarn is a finer worsted weight yarn. Therefore, I decided to crochet the basket holding 2 strands together and used about 80-100 yards total. For this sample I used a crochet hook size K (6.50 mm).

I used Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in the smallest sample in the color, Ivory. I used 1 strand of yarn (crochet hook size I (5.50mm) ) and the entire pattern worked up in about 60 yards.

For the larger pink basket I used Lion Brand Rewind yarn which is a (finer) bulky home décor yarn. I used about half of a skein, or 100 yards, and used a crochet hook size K (6.50 mm). The Mahogany Rose color is very soft and muted.

Lion Brand Rewind

Other items you may want to have on hand are a stitch marker, scissors and yarn needle.

Stitches and abbreviations Used

  • Ch(s) = Chain(s)
  • St(s) = Stitch(es)
  • Sc = Single Crochet
  • Hdc = Half Double Crochet
  • Spike Sc = Spike Single Crochet
  • Reverse Sc = Reverse Single Crochet (also known as the Crab Stitch)
  • FP = Front Post
  • BL = Back Loop Only
  • FL = Front Loop Only
  • R = Row/Round

The ridged bottom of the Woven Basket

The woven stitch creates a nice thick fabric which holds up great for sides of a basket. However, when you create something with sides are are thicker/heavier it is important to have a sturdy base. This took some trial and error but I eventually came up with a fun way to do just that.

Plus, the technique I used created a ridge on the basket bottom/base which helps keep the circular shape of the basket.

Woven basket bottom

Gauge Check

This pattern is very unique since it can be customized to any size and can be made with any type of yarn. Due to all the customization available, you do not need to check your gauge. Just follow the instructions to make the basket the size you want. Make sure you use the recommended hook size on your yarn label.

A step by step video

Beginning your custom basket or pot holder

R1: Ch 2, 8hdc in 2nd ch from hook, join with a slst in the top of the 1st hdc of the round (8) pull beginning strand of yarn to close hole *note: you may begin with a magic circle if you prefer

Woven Basket Round 1

Part 1 of R2: you will crochet 2 layers in this round, Ch 1, work this section in the BL only, 2hdc in each st around making sure not to work into the joining slst of R1 (16), do not join

Part 2 of R2: you will now work a round in the unworked FL (1st image) repeating the 2hdc in each st around, this will create a 2nd layer (2nd image) join in both of the 1st stitches from both layers (3rd image) to complete the round (4th image)

R3: Ch 1, work this round working through both layers of R2, 2hdc in 1st st, hdc in next st, [2hdc in next st, hdc in next st], repeat [] around (24)

Woven Basket Round 3

R4: using the same technique you used on R2, crochet 2 layers in this round, Ch 1, work this section in the BL only 2hdc in 1st st, hdc in each of the next 2 sts, [2hdc in next st, hdc in each of the next 2 sts], repeat [] around (32) do not join, you will now work a round in the unworked FL repeating [] around, join in both of the 1st stitches of each layer in this round

R5: Ch 1, work this round working through both layers of stitches from R4, 2hdc in 1st st, hdc in each of the next 3 sts, [2hdc in next st, hdc in each of the next 3 sts], repeat [] around (40)

*note: at this point you will continue to crochet increase rounds working every even rows with a double layer. Odd rows crochet as a single layer while working through the double layer of the previous row. Continue this pattern until the bottom of your basket in your desired size. You can end on either an even or an odd row.

Final Round: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join

Creating the turn from bottom to side of basket

R1: Ch 1, loosely FPsc in each st around, join and turn

If you are wondering what a FP (front post) single crochet is, take a look at the photo tutorial below: Ch 1, insert hook around the post of the st from the prior row (see image 1 & 2), yarn over and pull up a loop (image 3 & 4), yarn over pull through both loops on hook to complete the FPsc (image 5), repeat around row (image 6).

R2: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join

R3: Ch 1, spike st in each st around, join

See the tutorial below for the spike stitch: Begin with a ch 1, insert your hook into the base of the sc from the prior row (image 1 & 2), pull up a loop (image 3), yarn over, pull through 2 loops on hook to complete the spike st (image 4), continue working a spike stitch (image 5) around entire row, join (image 6).

The Woven Stitch / Side of Basket

R4: Ch 1, skip first st, in next st work 1 row below , working into the skipped st of current row repeat [], {skip next st, in next st work 1 row below repeat [], working in the skipped st of the current row repeat []}, repeat {} around, join (see photo tutorial below).












Repeat R4 to desired height – I recommend watching the video to see stitch placement. It is much easier to show than try to explain. Video is further up in the blog post.

A Rolled Finished Edge

Once you finish the sides of your basket it is nice to have an easy and clean edge. I love the rolled look of the last round. It helps create a clean and professional edge that doesn’t take away from the beautiful stitching throughout the design.

Rolled Edges

R1: Ch 1,reverse sc (crab st) in each st around, fasten off and weave in all ends.

Reverse Single Crochet Tutorial: You will work backwards going from left to right. Insert hook into 1st st (image 1 & 2), pull up a loop (image 3), you now have 2 loops on your hook.Yarn over and pull through both loop on hook to complete your first reverse sc (image 4), insert your hook into the next st to your right, remember you are working backwards (image 5-see where needle is pointing), repeat in each st (image 6).

Other patterns I think You’ll like

  • Free Simple Basket Pattern – click HERE
  • Free Coffee Cozy Patterns – click HERE
  • Free Hot Pad & Scrubby Pattern with Free Gift Tag Printable – click HERE
Crochet & Conversations

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Join SP3 Crochet & Conversations HERE

Free Ice Cream Cone Crochet Hat Pattern

Vanilla, Chocolate or Strawberry? Those 3 words make everyone think of ice cream and with summer upon us it is time to start enjoying it again. The Ice Cream Cone hat design has been around from my first years of designing, but I am releasing it for FREE today.

I love the details in the hat from the ridges that make it looks like the ice cream was just pressed out of the machine. The texture in the cone and of course the cherry on top!

We All Scream for Ice Cream

As you sit there and start dreaming about your favorite flavor and how you now want to have some ice cream for dessert, you have me to thank. I know my kids ask for ice cream every. single. night.

Ice cream flavors

As yummy as ice cream is, this hat design could easily be made to look like a cup cake too. Who out there is my cup cake fans?

Enough of the Sweets – Let’s get to the ice cream hat pattern

When food, especially desserts, is the topic I can talk for hours. But, that isn’t why you are here, you want a free pattern. Let’s get to the nitty griddy of the design.

Materials

  • Crochet Hook size I (5.50 mm)
  • Worsted (4) weight yarn – 50 – 100 yards depending on the size you are making
  • Scissors & a Yarn Needle

Stitches and Abbreviations Used

  • Hdc=half double crochet
  • Sc=single crochet
  • Ch=chain
  • Slst=slip stitch
  • St=Stitch
  • BL=work stitch in the backloops
  • FP=work the stitch around the front post of the stitch in the prior row

Check Your Gauge

Please check gauge, if you do not take the time to check your gauge, your hat may not come out the right size. Adjust your hook to obtain gauge. If your swatch is too large, go down a hook size. If your swatch is too small, go up a hook size.

Using crochet hook I (5.50 mm) crochet 10 rows of 13 half double crochets. Your swatch should measure 4 inches square.

ice Cream cone hat

Sizes of ice cream hat

  • Newborn (12 ¼ ” around & 5” high – fits up to 14” circumference)
  • 3 to 6 Months (14” around & 5 ½ “ high – fits up to 15″ or 16″ circumference)
  • 6 to 12 Months (16″ around & 6” high – fits up to 18″ circumference)
  • 12 to 24 Months (17″ around & 6 ½ “ high – fits up to 19″ circumference)
  • Child (18” around & 7 ½ “ high – fits up to 20″ circumference)

Pattern notes

  • The hat is made from the top down. You will begin all sizes by making the Cherry on top, then continue with the ice cream and finish with the waffle cone.
  • The hat is made with ridges to add character. There will be a slight curve/swirl to the ridges when the hat is completed (just like a real ice cream cone).  
  • Always count the beginning ch of hdc rows, but do not count the beginning chain of sc rows.

Cherry On Top instructions

Use Crochet Hook I (5.5 mm) & red yarn

  • R1: Chain 3, work 7 hdc in 3rd chain from hook (first ch made), join (8 st counting beginning ch)
  • R2: Chain 1, sc in each st around, join (8)
  • R3: Chain 2, hdc2tog around, join (4) switch to ice cream color and continue on to appropriate hat size.

Hats by sizes

Newborn ice Cream Hat

  • R1: Chain 1, sc in first st, 1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in last st, join (5)
  • R2: Chain 2, hdc in same st you just joined in, 2 hdc in each st around, join (10)
  • R3: Chain 2, FP hdc around beginning ch round round 2, hdc in same st, (FP hdc around next st, hdc in top of same st) around, join (20)
  • R4: Chain 2, (FP hdc around FP st from round 3, hdc in top of same st, hdc in next st) repeat around, join (30)
  • R5: Chain 2, (FP hdc around FP st from round 4, hdc in top of same st, hdc in next 2 st) repeat around, join (40)
  • R6: Chain 2 (FP hdc, hdc in next 3 st) repeat around, join (40)
  • R7-12: repeat R6
  • R13: Chain 4, slst around post of next st, (chain 4, slst around post of next st) repeat around, join and fasten off.
  • R14: With brown yarn, join in joining slst from round 12, this round will be worked in the BL only. Chain 1, sc in each st around, join (40)
  • R15: Chain 2, hdc in the last st of round 14 (beginning of our criss-cross st pattern-now and throughout pattern when I state “skip next stitch” this refers to the next unworked stitch), (skip next st, hdc in next st, hdc in skipped st) repeat around, join (40)
  • R16: Chain 2, hdc in last st of round 15 (skip next st, hdc in next st, hdc in skipped st) repeat around, join (40). If you do not want to make earflaps fasten off.

Beginning Earflaps (do not fasten off from round 16, we will just begin the first earflap)

  • R1: Ch 2, hdc in last st from round 16, (skip next st, hdc in next st, hdc in skipped st) repeat 4 more times (12 stitches or 6 criss-crosses) turn
  • R2: slst in 2nd st and next st, ch 2, hdc in st prior/before your ch 2, (skip next st, hdc in next st, hdc in skipped st) repeat 4 times (10 stitches or 5 criss-crosses) turn
  • R3: slst in 2nd st and next st, ch 2, hdc in st prior/before your ch 2, (skip next st, hdc in next st, hdc in skipped st) repeat 3 times (8 stitches or 4 criss-crosses) turn
  • R4: slst in 2nd st and next st, ch 2, hdc in st prior/before your ch 2, (skip next st, hdc in next st, hdc in skipped st) repeat 2 times (6 stitches or 3 criss-crosses) turn
  • R5: slst in 2nd st and next st, ch 2, hdc in st prior/before your ch 2, (skip next st, hdc in next st, hdc in skipped st) repeat (4 stitches or 2 criss crosses) fasten off. If this is your 1st earflap count across front of hat 10 stitches and join with a slst in 11th stitch and repeat earflap pattern. If this is your 2nd earflap make ties, instructions at the bottom of all hat sizes, to finish hat.
yarn samples

3- 6 Month Size Ice Cream Hat

  • R1: Chain 1, sc in first st, 1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in last st, join (5)
  • R2: Chain 2, hdc in same st you just joined in, 2 hdc in each st around, join (10)
  • R3: Chain 2, FP hdc around beginning ch from round 2, hdc in same st, (FP hdc around next st, hdc in top of same st) around, join (20)
  • R4: Chain 2, (FP hdc around FP st from round 3, hdc in top of same st, hdc in next st) repeat around, join (30)
  • R5: Chain 2, (FP hdc around FP st from round 4, hdc in top of same st, hdc in next 2 st) repeat around, join (40)
  • R6: Chain 2, (FP hdc around fptp st from round 5, hdc in top of same st, hdc in next 3 st, FP hdc, hdc in next 3 st) repeat 3 times for a total of 4 times, FP hdc, hdc in next 3 st, FP hdc, hdc in last 2 st, join (44)
  • R7: Chain 2, (FP hdc, hdc in next 4 st, FP hdc, hdc in next 3 st) repeat 3 times for a total of 4 times, FP hdc, hdc in next 3 st, FP hdc, hdc in last 2 st, join (44)
  • R8-13: repeat R7
  • R14: Chain 4, slst around post of next st, (chain 4, slst around post of next st) repeat around, join and fasten off.
  • R15: With brown yarn, join in joining slst from round 13, this round will be worked in the BL only. Chain 1, sc in each st around, join (44)
  • R16: Chain 2, hdc in the last st of round (beginning of our criss-cross st pattern-now and throughout pattern when I state “skip next stitch” this refers to the next unworked stitch), (skip next st, hdc in next st, hdc in skipped st) repeat around, join (44)
  • R17: Chain 2, hdc in last st of round 16 (skip next st, hdc in next st, hdc in skipped st) repeat around, join (44). If you do not want to make earflaps fasten off.

Beginning Earflaps (do not fasten off from round 17, we will just begin the first earflap)

  • R1: Ch 2, hdc in last st from round 17, (skip next st, hdc in next st, hdc in skipped st) repeat 4 more times (12 stitches or 6 criss-crosses) turn
  • R2: slst in 2nd st and next st, ch 2, hdc in st prior/before your ch 2, (skip next st, hdc in next st, hdc in skipped st) repeat 4 times (10 stitches or 5 criss-crosses) turn
  • R3: slst in 2nd st and next st, ch 2, hdc in st prior/before your ch 2, (skip next st, hdc in next st, hdc in skipped st) repeat 3 times (8 stitches or 4 criss-crosses) turn
  • R4: slst in 2nd st and next st, ch 2, hdc in st prior/before your ch 2, (skip next st, hdc in next st, hdc in skipped st) repeat 2 times (6 stitches or 3 criss-crosses) turn
  • R5: slst in 2nd st and next st, ch 2, hdc in st prior/before your ch 2, (skip next st, hdc in next st, hdc in skipped st) repeat (4 stitches or 2 criss crosses) fasten off. If this is your 1st earflap count across front of hat 11 stitches and join with a slst in 12th stitch and repeat earflap pattern. If this is your 2nd earflap make ties, instructions at the bottom of all hat sizes, to finish hat.
Ice cream hat

6-12 month ice cream hat

  • R1: Chain 1, 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in last st, join (6)
  • R2: Chain 2, hdc in same st you just joined in, 2 hdc in each st around, join (12)
  • R3: Chain 2, FP hdc around beginning ch round round 2, hdc in same st, (FP hdc around next st, hdc in top of same st) around, join (24)
  • R4: Chain 2, (FP hdc around FP st from round 3, hdc in top of same st, hdc in next st) repeat around, join (36)
  • R5: Chain 2, (FP hdc around FP st from round 4, hdc in top of same st, hdc in next 2 st) repeat around, join (48)
  • R6: Chain 2 (FP hdc, hdc in next 3 st) repeat around, join (48)
  • R7-15: repeat R6
  • R16: Chain 4, slst around post of next st, (chain 4, slst around post of next st) repeat around, join and fasten off.
  • R17: With brown yarn, join in joining slst from round 15, this round will be worked in the BL only. Chain 1, sc in each st around, join (48)
  • R18: Chain 2, hdc in the last st of round 17 (beginning of our criss-cross st pattern-now and throughout pattern when I state “skip next stitch” this refers to the next unworked stitch), (skip next st, hdc in next st, hdc in skipped st) repeat around, join (48)
  • R19: Chain 2, hdc in last st of round 18 (skip next st, hdc in next st, hdc in skipped st) repeat around, join (48). If you do not want to make earflaps fasten off.

Beginning Earflaps (do not fasten off from round 19, we will just begin the first earflap)

  • R1: Ch 2, hdc in last st from round 19, (skip next st, hdc in next st, hdc in skipped st) repeat 6 more times (14 stitches or 7 criss-crosses) turn
  • R2: slst in 2nd st and next st, ch 2, hdc in st prior/before your ch 2, (skip next st, hdc in next st, hdc in skipped st) repeat 5 times (12 stitches or 6 criss-crosses) turn
  • R3: slst in 2nd st and next st, ch 2, hdc in st prior/before your ch 2, (skip next st, hdc in next st, hdc in skipped st) repeat 4 times (10 stitches or 5 criss-crosses) turn
  • R4: slst in 2nd st and next st, ch 2, hdc in st prior/before your ch 2, (skip next st, hdc in next st, hdc in skipped st) repeat 3 times (8 stitches or 4 criss-crosses) turn
  • R5: slst in 2nd st and next st, ch 2, hdc in st prior/before your ch 2, (skip next st, hdc in next st, hdc in skipped st) repeat 2 times (6 stitches or 3 criss-crosses) turn
  • R6: slst in 2nd st and next st, ch 2, hdc in st prior/before your ch 2, (skip next st, hdc in next st, hdc in skipped st) repeat (4 stitches or 2 criss crosses) fasten off. If this is your 1st earflap count across front of hat 13 stitches and join with a slst in 14th stitch and repeat earflap pattern. If this is your 2nd earflap make ties, instructions at the bottom of all hat sizes, to finish hat.
melting ice cream

12-24 month ice cream hat

  • R1: Chain 1, 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in last st, join (6)
  • R2: Chain 2, hdc in same st you just joined in, 2 hdc in each st around, join (12)
  • R3: Chain 2, FP hdc around beginning ch round round 2, hdc in same st, (FP hdc around next st, hdc in top of same st) around, join (24)
  • R4: Chain 2, (FP hdc around FP st from round 3, hdc in top of same st, hdc in next st) repeat around, join (36)
  • R5: Chain 2, (FP hdc around FP st from round 4, hdc in top of same st, hdc in next 2 st) repeat around, join (48)
  • R6: Chain 2, (FP hdc around FP st round round 5, hdc in top of same st, hdc in next 3 st, FP hdc, hdc in next 3 st) repeat around, join (54)
  • R7: Chain 2, (FP hdc, hdc in next 4 st, FP hdc, hdc in next 3 st) repeat around, join (54)
  • R8-16: repeat R7
  • R17: Chain 4, slst around post of next st, (chain 4, slst around post of next st) repeat around, join and fasten off.
  • R18: With brown yarn, join in joining slst from round 16, this round will be worked in the BL only. Chain 1, sc in each st around, join (54)
  • R19: Chain 2, hdc in the last st of round 18 (beginning of our criss-cross st pattern-now and throughout pattern when I state “skip next stitch” this refers to the next unworked stitch), (skip next st, hdc in next st, hdc in skipped st) repeat around, join (54)
  • R20: Chain 2, hdc in last st of round 19 (skip next st, hdc in next st, hdc in skipped st) repeat around, join (54). If you do not want to make earflaps fasten off.

Beginning Earflaps (do not fasten off from round 20, we will just begin the first earflap)

  • R1: Ch 2, hdc in last st from round 20, (skip next st, hdc in next st, hdc in skipped st) repeat 6 more times (14 stitches or 7 criss-crosses) turn
  • R2: slst in 2nd st and next st, ch 2, hdc in st prior/before your ch 2, (skip next st, hdc in next st, hdc in skipped st) repeat 5 times (12 stitches or 6 criss-crosses) turn
  • R3: slst in 2nd st and next st, ch 2, hdc in st prior/before your ch 2, (skip next st, hdc in next st, hdc in skipped st) repeat 4 times (10 stitches or 5 criss-crosses) turn
  • R4: slst in 2nd st and next st, ch 2, hdc in st prior/before your ch 2, (skip next st, hdc in next st, hdc in skipped st) repeat 3 times (8 stitches or 4 criss-crosses) turn
  • R5: slst in 2nd st and next st, ch 2, hdc in st prior/before your ch 2, (skip next st, hdc in next st, hdc in skipped st) repeat 2 times (6 stitches or 3 criss-crosses) turn
  • R6: slst in 2nd st and next st, ch 2, hdc in st prior/before your ch 2, (skip next st, hdc in next st, hdc in skipped st) repeat (4 stitches or 2 criss crosses) fasten off. If this is your 1st earflap count across front of hat 14 stitches and join with a slst in 15th stitch and repeat earflap pattern. If this is your 2nd earflap make ties, instructions at the bottom of all hat sizes, to finish hat.
cupcakes

Child Size ice Cream Hat

  • R1: Chain 1, sc in first st, 1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in last st, join (5)
  • R2: Chain 2, hdc in same st you just joined in, 2 hdc in each st around, join (10)
  • R3: Chain 2, FP hdc around beginning ch round round 2, hdc in same st, (FP hdc around next st, hdc in top of same st) around, join (20)
  • R4: Chain 2, (FP hdc around FP st from round 3, hdc in top of same st, hdc in next st) repeat around, join (30)
  • R5: Chain 2, (FP hdc around FP st from round 4, hdc in top of same st, hdc in next 2 st) repeat around, join (40)
  • R6: Chain 2, (FP hdc around FP st from round 5, hdc in top of same st, hdc in next 3 st) repeat around, join (50)
  • R7: Chain 2, (FP hdc around FP st from round 6, hdc in top of same st, hdc in next 4 st) repeat around, join (60)
  • R8: Chain 2, (FP hdc, hdc in next 5 st) repeat around, join (60)
  • R9-18: Repeat R8
  • R19: Chain 4, slst around post of next st, (chain 4, slst around post of next st) repeat around, join and fasten off.
  • R20: With brown yarn, join in joining slst from round 18, this round will be worked in the BL only. Chain 1, sc in each st around, join (60)
  • R21: Chain 2, hdc in the last st of round 20 (beginning of our criss-cross st pattern-now and throughout pattern when I state “skip next stitch” this refers to the next unworked stitch), (skip next st, hdc in next st, hdc in skipped st) repeat around, join (60)
  • R22: Chain 2, hdc in last st of round 21 (skip next st, hdc in next st, hdc in skipped st) repeat around, join (60). If you do not want to make earflaps fasten off.

Beginning Earflaps (do not fasten off from round 22, we will just begin the first earflap)

  • R1: Ch 2, hdc in last st from round 22, (skip next st, hdc in next st, hdc in skipped st) repeat 7 more times (16 stitches or 8 criss-crosses) turn
  • R2: slst in 2nd st and next st, ch 2, hdc in st prior/before your ch 2, (skip next st, hdc in next st, hdc in skipped st) repeat 6 times (14 stitches or 7 criss-crosses) turn
  • R3: slst in 2nd st and next st, ch 2, hdc in st prior/before your ch 2, (skip next st, hdc in next st, hdc in skipped st) repeat 5 times (12 stitches or 6 criss-crosses) turn
  • R4: slst in 2nd st and next st, ch 2, hdc in st prior/before your ch 2, (skip next st, hdc in next st, hdc in skipped st) repeat 4 times (10 stitches or 5 criss-crosses) turn
  • R5: slst in 2nd st and next st, ch 2, hdc in st prior/before your ch 2, (skip next st, hdc in next st, hdc in skipped st) repeat 3 times (8 stitches or 4 criss-crosses) turn
  • R6: slst in 2nd st and next st, ch 2, hdc in st prior/before your ch 2, (skip next st, hdc in next st, hdc in skipped st) repeat 2 times (6 stitches or 3 criss-crosses) turn
  • R7: slst in 2nd st and next st, ch 2, hdc in st prior/before your ch 2, (skip next st, hdc in next st, hdc in skipped st) repeat (4 stitches or 2 criss crosses) fasten off. If this is your 1st earflap count across front of hat 15 stitches and join with a slst in 16th stitch and repeat earflap pattern. If this is your 2nd earflap make ties, instructions at the bottom of all hat sizes, to finish hat.
ice cream hat top view

Earflap Ties Instructions

You can make the ties on the earflap one color, 2 color or 3 colors. If you already know how to make ties on earflaps do them however you are comfortable. I simple take 2 (or 3) strands of yarn, measure about 12 feet long, fold them in half, at the fold, join with a slst in between the 2 crisscrosses from last row of earflaps. I then take a large hook (size N or O) and complete 18-22 chains depending on the length you prefer, tie them off. At this point just trim up the tassels (add more yarn to ends if you like them fuller) to have even ends.

Other Free Patterns you might like

Crochet & Conversations

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Snap Closure Glasses Case – Free Crochet Pattern

Do you wear glasses? Whether you are like me and have aging eyes, have worn glasses most of your life or just protect your eyes from the sun, it is fun to have a cute handmade eye glasses case. Add a fun snap closer and our favorite craft of crochet, and you’ve got a perfect afternoon project.

A few years ago I turned the dreaded big 4-0! Honestly, life has been amazing after 40, with the exception of my eyesight. I have noticed I need to lean a little closer to see clearer. Then last week I renewed my drivers license and decided it is time for me to go see an eye doctor. Thankfully, we have an optometrist in the family.

Snap Pouch Glasses Case Pattern

Blue Light Reading Glasses

I don’t officially have a subscription for glasses so I have been relying on readers.com over the last year. Just a little magnification helps so much! Then, I started hearing about blue light glasses and the benefits of them.

Blue light blocking glasses can help to filter out a percentage of blue light and lessen eye fatigue when you’re working on your computer screen or using electronic devices. Say goodbye to digital eye strain with a pair of blue light blocking* glasses! Also available with magnified lenses, known as “blue light reading glasses”, for those seeking the benefits of both.

www.readers.com

Check out how cute my glasses are! I love the Tortoise shell of the rims. I mean if you have to wear glasses, you better make them cute. Right.

blue light readers

Check out the entire collection of readers and blue light readers using the (affl link) button below:

Take me to Readers.com
Snap Pouch Glasses Case

How to make your Snap Closure Glasses Case

The snap closure on the glasses case makes it easy to slide your glasses in and out of the case. I used a quick and easy stitch that creates a thicker fabric to protect the glasses. I hope you enjoy learning something new and enjoy the tutorial.

The materials needed for the Glasses Case

  • Crochet Hook size G (4.00 mm)
  • Crochet Hook size H (5.00 mm)
  • Light Weight Yarn (#3) I used about 100 yards. In the sample shown, I used Lion Brand Vanna’s Style yarn
  • Metal Tape Measure – Tape should be ¾” wide (use an old one that you can re-purpose/upcycle if possible)
  • Tape – electrical tape is best, but duct tape or packaging tape will also work
  • Yarn Needle
  • Tin Snips or Old Scissors (cutting may dull the edges so don’t use your best pair)
Supplies for Glasses Case

Stitches & Abbreviations Used:

  • Ch = Chain
  • Sc = Single Crochet
  • FP = Front Post
  • St(s) = Stitch(es)
  • R = Row/Round

Completed Size of Glasses Case:

  • 3” opening and 7″ long, but instructions will allow you to customize the shape to fit any glasses

Pattern Notes

  • The pouch will be made while crocheting in the round working from the opening (top) down.
  • Beginning chain will not count as a stitch unless stated.
  • Gauge is very important when crocheting. However, in this design I will give you measurements to follow. Use these measurements to get the correct size of your finished glasses case.

Prep the Snap Closure

  • All glasses are different in size. It is a good idea to make your opening a minimum of 1 inch wider than your glasses. In this sample my glasses measure 2” so I made my opening 3”.
  • Cut 2 pieces of the tape measure 3” long (image shows just over 2″-follow the size noted in the above note for the size of your glasses).
  • Trim the sharp points so they are rounded, this will make them less likely to break through the tape and cut the yarn after construction.
  • Wrap the ends of the metal pieces with a sturdy tape. Electrical tape works best but you can use duct tape or packaging tape.
  • Set aside for use later.

Crocheting the Glasses Case

Using Hook G & Light Weight Yarn

Ch 32, making sure beginning chain is not twisted, join in first ch to form a ring (or chain as many chains as needed to equal the length of your prepared metal snap strips plus 2 stitches)

R1: Ch 1, sc in each ch around, join (32)

R2-4: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join (32)

At this point check to see if the rows are equal to the width of your tape. If they are then double your row count and add 1 more row (I met my width in 4 rows, therefore I will complete a total of 9 rows (*4 rows x 2 = 8 rows + 1 more row = 9 total rows) Make sure to adjust for your tape width.

After completing the 9 rows (or the number of rows needed *see notes above), fold the crochet piece in half. I liked having a little different look to the stitches so I folded mine so the back side of the sc rows was showing on the outside, this was just personal preference and you can fold either way you want.

Place one of the prepared metal pieces inside the fold. Make sure the curved side of the measuring tape is facing the outside of the case.

Single Crochet the snap strip into the fold by crocheting through the tops of the stitches from your last row AND through the beginning chain. Complete half of the row (16 stitches in my sample). Insert second prepared snap strip, again making sure the curved edge is facing outside. Continue to sc together around the rest of the row.

The opening snap of the eye glass case has been made. Just press on the edges and will snap open!

Change to Hook H (5.00 mm)

The body of the pouch will be made in rounds and made to the length of your glasses. Increase your hook size up two sizes

The first row will be the most difficult because the stitches from the snap section are tighter. Be patient and work slow, after the first round it is much easier.

Ch 1, FP single crochet around, do not join, you will work in continuous rounds.

Continue to FP single crochet in each stitch around until the length of your case (not counting the snap portion) measures the length of your glasses. Mine was about 7″ long.

Once the length has been reached, slst into the next stitch and fasten off leaving a long tail. Use that left over tail of yarn to sew/seam the bottom together and you are done!

More fun Crochet Tutorials Free from Sweet Potato 3

  • How to make a Twist Ear Warmer – click HERE
  • Dream Catcher Delight Wall Hanging – click HERE
  • Tree Garland and Gift Tags – click HERE
  • Hot Pads & Kitchen Scrubby with Gift Tag Printable – click HERE

Don’t miss out on any more Sweet Potato 3 Crochet Fun

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Tree Garland + Gift Tag FREE Crochet Pattern

One of my favorite Christmas Traditions is the tree. Not the decorating, although that is a huge part of our holiday, but that fact that you are bringing in something beautiful, something living and something that fills your home with an aroma that is incomparable!

So, you may have guessed it. I am a huge fan of the pine tree. So, when I was thinking of a fun, cute, and quick holiday crochet pattern I could design and offer for free, this cute Tree Garland popped into my mind!

Tree Garland + Gift Tag Pin Image

I started off creating a bunch of pine trees in the traditional color of pine green and bright green. It was fantastic how quick they worked up but then I thought….. I need to add more color! So, again, I turned to my favorite things again and decided I loved the ombre look. And next thing I knew, I had a bunch of darling gift tags!

About the Tree pattern

I love to create patterns with texture so I always turn to my notebook of trusted stitches and sat down to play around. I fell in love a stitch that was “loopy” and made the layers of the branches whimsical and stand out.

Tree Gift Tag Ombre Sample

The “trunk” of the tree is a great place to add your own personality too. I love the look of the tassels in the garland but on the gift tags I kind of liked to add a bead with a smaller tassel to make it look longer. It really is just a personal choice. So be creative and have fun.

Materials Needed for the Tree pattern

  • Worsted Weight yarn (#4) – scrap amounts
  • Crochet Hook H (5.00 mm) – recommend a hook with no comfort handle
  • Measuring Tape
  • Scissors
  • Yarn Needle

Stitches + Abbreviations Used

  • Ch = Chain
  • Sc = Single Crochet
  • Slst = Slip Stitch
  • St(s) = Stitch(es)
  • Sp = Space
  • R = Row/Round

Finished Size of Crochet TREE

The completed tree will be approximately: 2 ½” wide X 3 ¼” high

For this tutorial, since the crochet piece is so small I do not have a gauge in this pattern. Instead, I recommend making 1 tree. If you want your tree larger, go up a hook size until you reach the desired height. If your finished tree is too large, go down a hook size accordingly

Christmas Tree Gift Tag Sample in Ombre

Notes about the Tree pattern

  • The final size of the tree may vary. The height that you customize your stitches can change the final size of your tree.
  • You can make your tree a solid color or change throughout the pattern. In the ombre sample, I changed yarn color at the beginning of rows 3, 5 & 7.
  • Other yarn weights may be used to make the tree pattern, be sure to adjust your hook size down one size from the recommend size on the yarn label.

Tree Garland + Gift Tag Pattern

The pattern is worked in a Tunisian crochet style. Each row will have a forward and a backwards pass. This is much easier than you think and does not require a special hook. Just follow the photo tutorials and you’ll be surprised and how much fun they are to make.

R1 forward: Ch 1, pull loop up about ¾” high, [yarn over, insert hook into st, pull up a loop about ¾” high], repeat [] 3 more times in same st, do not turn, 9 loops on your hook

Tree Row 1 Forward pattern

R1 return: yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook, [yarn over, pull through 3 loops on your hook], repeat [] 1 more time, yarn over, pull through last 4 loops on your hook, do not turn

Tree Row 1 Return of pattern

R2: Ch 1, sc in each space between sts from prior row, turn (3)

Tree Row 2 pattern

R3 forward: pull up a loop about ¾” high and ch 1, [yarn over, insert hook into st, pull up a loop about ¾’ high], repeat [] in same st, repeat [] in each st across repeating 2 times in last st, do not turn, 11 loops on hook

Tree Row 3 pattern

R3 return:  yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook, {yarn over, pull through 3 loops on your hook}, repeat {} 2 more times, yarn over, pull through last 4 loops on your hook, do not turn

R4: Ch 1, sc in each space between sts from prior row, turn (4)

Tree Row 4 pattern

R5 forward: pull up a loop about ¾” high and ch 1, [yarn over, insert hook into st, pull up a loop about ¾’ high], repeat [] in same st, repeat [] in each st across repeating 2 times in last st, do not turn, 13 loops on hook

R5 return:  yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook, {yarn over, pull through 3 loops on your hook}, repeat {} 3 more times, yarn over, pull through last 4 loops on your hook, do not turn

R6: Ch 1, sc in each space between sts from prior row, turn (5)

R7 forward: pull up a loop about ¾” high and ch 1, [yarn over, insert hook into st, pull up a loop about ¾’ high], repeat [] in same st, repeat [] in each st across repeating 2 times in last st, do not turn, 15 loops on hook

R7 return:  yarn over, pull through 2 loops on your hook, {yarn over, pull through 3 loops on your hook}, repeat {} 4 more times, yarn over, pull through last 4 loops on your hook, do not turn

R8: Ch 1, sc in each space between sts from prior row, turn (6)

R9: Ch 1, loosely slst in each st across, fasten off and weave in ends

Optional: add a tassel, fringe, bead or any other accessories to the center of the last row.

Blocking is not necessary, but sometimes I like to block just to give my crochet piece the best shape.

Blocking Tree Applique

You can then add your finished tree to a gift as a cute tag that everyone will love. Or you can string it on some yarn or cord to create a fun garland.

Tree Garland Crochet Pattern

If you enjoyed this Tutorial, check out the ones below:

More Crochet Fun

Follow Sweet Potato 3 on Facebook to see more pattern releases, sales and crochet fun, just click HERE.

However, if you would enjoy a more interactive group experience, you need to join my Crochet & Conversations facebook group, click HERE. It is a ton of fun and I encourage everyone to share their projects, WIPS (works in progress) and inspirations. Plus you get exclusive deals, are the first to see new releases, give input on designs and have opportunities to win patterns. Join now and get to know others who also enjoy the art of crochet.

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Free American Flag Applique – Crochet Pattern

I love crocheting appliques to add a personal touch to a crochet piece whether it is a hat, blanket, sweater, handbag or really anything. When I first started selling crocheting hats, a photographer wanted me to make them a hat with an American Flag on it.

American Flag Applique

As much as I love crocheting appliques, getting details can be tricky. When you crochet an American Flag one detail you must have is the 13 stripes. Trying to get 13 stripes even with a fine yarn is pretty difficult to get it to fit onto a newborn hat.

Because yarn wasn’t working I tried to find #10 thread but I only had red and white in my stash and the right shade of blue I couldn’t get locally. Trying to come up with a solution I noticed my daughters friendship bracelet kit in the corner. Sure enough, she had a bundle of each color I needed.

Floss for American Flag Applique

Making the Hat

I started by making a newborn hat using my FREE basic hat pattern you can find by clicking HERE. I made the newborn size with no ear flaps and made one change on the final row, instead of a row of single crochet I worked my final row in reverse single crochet.

American Flag Newborn hat

American Flag Applique Pattern

To make the applique I used the following supplies:

  • Embroidery Floss/Thread in Red, White & Blue
  • Crochet Hook 1 (2.75 mm)
  • Needle

Final Applique Size

  • 1 ¾” High
  • 2 ¾” Wide

Stitches and Abbreviations in the pattern are:

  • Ch = Chain
  • Sc = Single Crochet
  • St = Stitch
  • R = Row

Instructions

The American Flag Applique will be made by working the blue section first.

  • R1: in blue, Ch 8, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each remaining ch, turn (7)
  • R2-7: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn (7) fasten off after row 7 leaving  6”of thread.

The next piece will be made as one but will alternate between red and white. It is easiest to bury the color not being used under the sc then bringing it up at the end of the row.

  • R1: with red, Ch 10, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each remaining ch, turn (9)
  • R2: with white, Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn (9)
  • R3: with red, Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn (9)
  • R4-7: repeat rows 2 & 3
  • R8: with white, Ch 1, sc in each st across, now place your blue square next to the striped piece and continue with sc across 7 of blue piece (continue to bury the red thread so you can pick it up in R9), turn (16)

Using yarn end of the blue thread, sew up the opening between the two pieces.

  • R9: with red, Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn (16)
  • R10: with white, Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn (16)
  • R11: with red, Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn (16)
  • R12: with white, Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn (16) fasten off white thread
  • R13: with red, Ch 1, sc in each st across, fasten off red thread (16)
  • Weave in all ends
American Flag Applique

Sewing the Applique Onto the Crochet Piece

Sewing on the applique to your crochet piece may be frustrating at time to get it to lay right, but more importantly so that it looks professional without being able to see the stitching on the backside of your work. I created a video tutorial on how to do this easy technique and you can watch it by clicking HERE.

Other Applique Patterns You May Love:

More Crochet Fun

Follow Sweet Potato 3 on Facebook to see more pattern releases, sales and crochet fun, just click HERE.

However, if you would enjoy a more interactive group experience, you need to join my Crochet & Conversations facebook group, click HERE. It is a ton of fun and I encourage everyone to share their projects, WIPS (works in progress) and inspirations. Plus you get exclusive deals, are the first to see new releases, give input on designs and have opportunities to win patterns. Join now and get to know others who also enjoy the art of crochet.

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FREE Merino Thick & Thin Newborn Hat Patterns

Newborn photographs are one of the most treasured keepsakes you will ever have so you must have the right props. The fresh and delicateness of newborn life is embraced with the uniqueness of Merino Thick & Thin yarn but it doesn’t take away from the focus of the newborn.

Crocheting with custom dyed yarn will not only result in a new love of yarn to crochet with, but you will also find these hats to work up quick. As you crochet you will feel the luxuriousness of the yarn in your fingers and be so excited to put it on a newborn baby.

Three Different Merino Hat Styles To Choose From

Each hat design has a different personality, but they all share the sweet look to them. The uniqueness of the thick and thin yarn creates almost a bubble like look to the fabric that is crocheted. It naturally tightens and loosens between each stitch.

The Merino Thick & Thin Hat pattern styles that I will be sharing with you include a Pixie Hat, a traditional Beanie and a Pixie Bonnet style.

  • Merino Pixie Hat
  • Merino Beanie
  • Merino Bonnet

Which style do you want to make? The great thing about these patterns is the minimal amount of thick & thin yarn they use. For Instance, with one 90 yard skein, I was able to make one hat of each design.

  • Merino Thick & Thin Hat
  • Merino Pixie Hat
  • Merino Pixie Hat

Newborn Merino Pixie Hat Pattern

You will need the following supplies:

  • about 28 yards of Merino Thick & Thin Yarn
  • Crochet Hook N (9.00 mm)
  • Measuring Tape, Yarn Needle, Scissors
  • Optional: Button

Crochet Pattern for Pixie Hat

  1. Ch 3, 4 hdc in 3rd ch from hook, join in the top of beginning ch 2 (5 st counting beginning ch 2 as a stitch now and throughout pattern)
  2. Ch 2, hdc in same st as join, hdc in each st around, join (6 sts there was a 1 stitch increase)
  3. Ch 2, hdc in same st as join, hdc in next st, [2hdc in next st, hdc in next st], repeat [] around, join (9)
  4. Ch 2, hdc in same st as join, hdc in each of next 2 sts, [2hdc in next st, hdc in each of the next 2 sts], repeat [] around, join (12)
  5. Ch 2, hdc in same st as join, hdc in each of next 3 sts, [2hdc in next st, hdc in each of the next 3 sts], repeat [] around, join (15)
  6. Ch 2, hdc in same st as join, hdc in next st, [2hdc in next st, hdc in next st], repeat [] until 1 st remains, hdc in last st, join (22)
  7. Ch 2, hdc in same st as join, hdc in each of next 6 sts, 2hdc in next st, hdc in each of the next 7 sts, 2hdc in next st, hdc in each of the next 6 sts, join (25)
  8. Ch 2, hdc in each st around, join (25)
  9. Ch 2, hdc in each st around, join (25)
  10. Ch 2, hdc in each st around, join (25)
  11. Ch 2, hdc in each st around, join (25), fasten off and weave in all ends
  12. Optional: add button

Hat dimensions / folded flat: Width = 6 inches, Height = 7 inches

  • Merino Beanie Crochet Pattern
  • Merino Beanie
  • Merino Thick & Thin Beanie

Newborn Merino Basic Beanie Hat Pattern

You will need the following supplies:

  • About 25 yards of Merino Thick & Thin Yarn
  • Crochet Hook N (9.00 mm)
  • Measuring Tape, Yarn Needle, Scissors

Crochet Pattern for the Basic Beanie:

  1. Ch 3, 9 hdc in 3rd ch from hook, join in the top of beginning ch 2 (10 sts counting beginning ch 2 now and throughout pattern)
  2. Ch 2, hdc in same st as join, 2hdc in each st around, join (20)
  3. Ch 2, hdc in same st as join, hdc in each of next 2 sts, [2hdc in next st, hdc in each of the next 2 sts], repeat [] around, join (25)
  4. Ch 2, hdc in each st around, join (25)
  5. Ch 2, hdc in each st around, join (25)
  6. Ch 2, hdc in each st around, join (25)
  7. Ch 2, hdc in each st around, join (25)
  8. Ch 1, sc in each st around, join (25), fasten off and weave in all ends

Hat dimensions / folded flat: Width = 6 inches, Height = 5 inches

  • Merino Pixie Bonnet
  • Merino Pixie Bonnet Crochet Pattern
  • Merino Bonnet Pattern

Newborn Merino Bonnet Pattern

You will need the following supplies:

  • About 35 yards of Merino Thick & Thin Yarn
  • Crochet Hook N (9.00 mm)
  • Measuring Tape, Yarn Needle, Scissors

Crochet Pattern for the Bonnet

  1. Ch 14, hdc in the 3rd chain from hook, hdc in each remaining ch, rotate work (you will now continue your hdc in the opposite side of the ch), hdc in each ch to end, turn (26 counting beginning ch now and throughout hat)
  2. Ch 2, hdc in each st to end of row, turn (26)
  3. Ch 2, hdc in first 11 sts, dc3tog, hdc in remaining 11 st, turn (24)
  4. Ch 2, hdc in next 9 sts, sc2tog, sc2tog, hdc in remaining 10 st, turn (22)
  5. Ch 2, hdc in each st across, turn (22)
  6. Ch 2, hdc in each st across, turn (22)
  7. Ch 2, hdc in each st across, turn (22)
  8. Ch 2, hdc in each st across, fasten off and weave in ends
  9. Continue to tassel instructions
  • Merino Bonnet
  • Merino Bonnet
  • Merino Bonnet

Adding Braid / Ties & Tassels to the Bonnet

There are 2 options that I have used for the ties and/or tassels. I usually use whichever one I have enough yarn for. If you are running short of yarn, check out the top row of images in the above graphics. Those hats demonstrate the ties/braid option resulting in using less yarn because they feature a small braid and small tassels. However, in the bottom image there are longer tassels with no braid.

Ties / Braid Option: Begin to create this option by taking 2 strands of yarn and measure about 3 feet long, then fold the yarn in half. At the fold, join with a slst in the front lower corner of the bonnet. After that step, complete as many chains as possible leaving enough yarn for a small tassel (usually about 15-22 chains), tie them off and trim up the tassels to have even ends.

Tassel Only Option: To complete the longer tassels, take the remaining yarn and fold it in half, continue folding in half until you have about 4, 6 or 8 strands, just make sure it is an even number. Split them in half and then place them in 2 separate piles. Take the first pile and fold those strands in half, now, at the fold, pull through the front lower corner of the bonnet. Continue by tying tightly with a scrap piece of yarn around the folded area and then repeat on the other side with the second group of measured out strands.

  • Merino Pixie Hat

More Newborn Pattern You May LOVE

More Crochet Fun

Follow Sweet Potato 3 on Facebook to see more pattern releases, sales and crochet fun, just click HERE. But, if you want more, I have created an interactive group just for you!

However, if you would enjoy a more interactive group experience, you need to join my Crochet & Conversations facebook group, click HERE. The group is a ton of fun and I encourage everyone to share their projects, WIPS (works in progress) and inspirations. In addition to being a member, you get exclusive deals, are the first to see new releases, give input on designs and have opportunities to win patterns. Join now and get to know others who also enjoy the art of crochet.

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Hot Pad & Scrubby Crochet Tutorial with Printable

I love receiving handmade practical gifts and today I am going to show you just that. I am going to walk you through how to make a traditional hot pad and dish scrubby and I will give you a cute printable to make your gifts perfect.

Hot Pad Scrubby Crochet Tutorial with Printable

Hot Pad Crochet Tutorial

To make the hat pad, all you need is worsted weight yarn, a crochet hook K (6.5 mm), a yarn needle and some scissors. Gauge isn’t essential in making the hot pad but will affect your final size. It is important that your stitches are tight enough that the heat from the pans doesn’t go through, but keep in mind these will be double layered.

To begin, you will crochet your beginning chain and will want it to be the diagonal length of your hot pad. I want my final hot pad to measure about 7″ X 7″ square, and I am going to save you the lesson on math, I want my diagonal to measure about 9″.

  • Using your crochet hook K, chain 36
  • Sc in the 2nd chain from your hook and in each remaining chain to the end
  • do NOT join, you will work in continuous rounds
Hot Pad STitch Tutorial
  • Sc in the first sc and in each stitch around
  • Continue working sc’s in the round
Hot Pat Tutorial Row 5

Want to Include Stripes / Color Changes

Because the hotpad naturally folds at an angle, you will want to work your color changes in the stitch immediately before the seam/fold, instead of in the first stitch of each row.

This is best done if you just eyeball where the edge of the hotpad is and work your color change in the top of that stitch. If you are working only 1 row of color change, make sure you complete the entire round plus one more stitch.

Continue to work rounds of single crochets until the top of the row meets in the middle and lays nicely. There should be no space between the edges and the seam should not pucker either.

Sew the seams together using the Mattress stitch, working under both loops of the stitch. Work your yarn from the inside of the hot pat to the outside (see video below). After the seam is stitches close, secure with a knot and weave in all ends.

A set of hot pads is always nice to receive. So, I recommend making a second one that coordinates with your first hot pad.

Scrubby Crochet Tutorial

Scrubbies are so much easier than they were to make years ago. Thankfully, many yarn companies are making yarn that is made specifically for scrubbies. In the tutorial I used Red Heart Scrubby. With one skein of yarn you will be able to crochet at least 4 scrubbies.

  • Ch 2, in 2nd chain from hook crochet 8hdc, join in top of the 1st hdc to create a round
  • Begin with a ch 1, work 2hdc in each st around, join in top of 1st hdc (16 total stitches in round)
  • Ch 1, [2hdc in 1st st, hdc in next st], repeat [] around, join in top o f 1st hdc, fasten off (24 total stitches in round)
  • Repeat steps above again but to not fasten off after round 3
  • Hold back sides of both circle crochet pieces together
  • In this next round you will work through both pieces, crocheting them together
  • Ch 1, [2hdc in 1st st, hdc in each of the next 2 sts], repeat [] around, join in top of 1st hdc, fasten off and weave in all ends (32 total stitches in round)

Add Printable Tags for the Holidays

Now you have an amazing set of 2 hot pads and a scrubby! Get read to assemble them into the perfect holiday gift by adding a simple but catchy tag.

Are these not the cutest! You can download a copy of the tag on a regular 8 1/2 X 11 paper. There will be 6 tags per sheet. I do recommend you print them on cardstock to give them a little extra sturdiness.

Once you have printed the tags, cut them to size and use a hole punch on the double holes in the middle of the tag. Using scrap yarn and a needle, attach the tags to your 2 hot pads and scrubby. I show how simple this step is in the video tutorial below.

Print your tags by clicking HERE.

See how easy these gift sets are to assemble

I created a video below that will walk you through all the steps discussed above including:

  • How to make a traditional hot pad
  • How to make a perfect scrubby
  • Assembling your gift set with printable tag

If you enjoyed this Tutorial, check out the ones below:

More Crochet Fun

Follow Sweet Potato 3 on Facebook to see more pattern releases, sales and crochet fun, just click HERE.

However, if you would enjoy a more interactive group experience, you need to join my Crochet & Conversations facebook group, click HERE. It is a ton of fun and I encourage everyone to share their projects, WIPS (works in progress) and inspirations. Plus you get exclusive deals, are the first to see new releases, give input on designs and have opportunities to win patterns. Join now and get to know others who also enjoy the art of crochet.

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Elf Hat with Curved Tip Crochet Pattern

Christmas is in full swing in my household and I am sure it is in many of yours too. A quick and easy addition to that Christmas spirit is this fun Elf Hat with a whimsical curved tip crocheted right in!

Make it in a solid color or 2, 3 or more fun colorful stripes for a fun and playful look. Then you can choose to add a pom or a jingle bell to make your hat fit your personality. The natural curve is crocheted right into the tip so it actually stands up all by itself.

Elf Hat with Curved Tip Crochet Pattern

The Elf Hat crochet pattern is darling for those newborns but don’t stop there, this pattern includes sizes up through children (about 12 years old). Make them for all your children or grandchildren for a perfect holiday photo opp.

I love when you can crochet a hat that can have so many looks to it. This crochet pattern is just that, the possibilities are endless.

About the Elf Hat with Curved Tips

As I already mentioned, the elf hat comes in so many sizes including:

  • newborn
  • 3-6 month
  • 6-12 month
  • 12-24 month
  • child (up to about 12 years old)

The hat is made using the popular worsted weight yarn. I love working with #4 weight yarns because they work up quick and are nice and warm for crochet hats.

Elf Hat Crochet Pattern

The curve stands up!

You got it! This photo was not photoshopped with someone holding the curve up. The curve is crocheted in the hat by alternating single crochet, half double crochet and double crochet stitches. This adds a cute whimsical look to an already dreamy holiday.

Elf Hat with Curved Tip

Grab the Elf Hat pattern for FREE

That is absolutely correct! I designed this darling hat a few years ago and just love it so much I wanted to release it to you all for FREE this holiday season! You can download it by clicking HERE.

You can also save it to your Ravelry Library by clicking HERE (it will link back to this blog post to download the pattern).

Other Christmas Patterns you May Like

How to make a Twist Ear Warmer or Headband Tutorial

Have you been eyeing all the cute Twist Ear Warmer or Headbands? They seem to be everywhere and turn a basic Ear Warmer (or Headband) into a very cute accessory. Today, I am going to share how easy they are to make.

Twist Ear Warmer Tutorial

The technique used to make the twist ear warmer / headband is simply in the way you sew the crochet ends pieces together. You can use this technique with most crochet patterns.

I recently did a stitch tutorial for the mini bean stitch and included instructions on how to make this fun ear warmer. You can see the step by step tutorial by clicking this LINK HERE. Then come back here to sew it up with a twist.

Mini Bean Twist Ear Warmer

How to make a Twist in your Ear Warmers

You will need to finish your ear warmer to the correct length. Most adult ear warmers will be about 20″ long, but may be different due to how much stretch the stitches allow for. Follow the recommendation in the pattern you are following.

Instead of folding the ends together and sewing them up in a straight seam, fold each crochet end in half. Once they are both folded in half, nestle them inside each other and fold together.

Using a tapestry needle, you will sew the ends together. Make sure you work the top of the stitches for all 4 layers, working across the entire row ends. When you reach the end, secure with a knot and weave in your ends.

Turn your headband right side out and you are done. The Twist is sewn in and lays perfectly.

Twist Ear Warmer Tutorial

Watch A Step By Step Tutorial

If you are like me, watching a tutorial is very helpful, so I created this YouTube video just for you. Click HERE to watch it on YouTube and subscribe, or just watch below:

Share your Twist Ear Warmers or Headbands

I would love to see your twist ear warmer you made, please come and join my , Crochet & Conversations Facebook Group. It is a fun and engaging group where you can share all things crochet related, just click HERE and ask to join.

Sweet Potato 3

Mini Bean Stitch and Ear Warmer Instructions

One of my favorite stitches to crochet is the mini bean stitch. I love how it works up quick, has a rich texture to it and leaves your crocheted fabric plush and soft. Seriously, what could be better than this?

The mini bean stitch is pretty simple to learn. Today I am going to show you exactly how to crochet it step by step. Then, I will give you a way to practice your new stitch by working up a fun Ear Warmer.

Mini Bean Stitch Ear Warmer Pattern

How to Begin your Ear Warmer

I will start off by walking you through the stitch step by step. Then, at the end of the tutorial you can watch my YouTube video to make sure you understand each step correctly.

Use a Crochet Hook I (5.50 mm) and about 100 yards of worsted weight yarn. I used Red Heart Amore in the color, restful, and love how soft the headband came out. In fact, I was able to make 2 headbands with 1 skein of yarn.

Mini Bean Twist Ear Warmer

Gauge is not essential in this pattern but make sure your stitches are not so tight that the fabric is stiff. If you want to match my gauge it is as follows: using crochet hook I, 9 mini bean stitches and 14 rows resulted in a 4 inch square.

Begin the Ear Warmer Pattern

  • You will want to begin working with an odd number of stitches.
  • Begin with a beginning chain of 20.
  • Single Crochet in the 2nd chain from your hook and each chain to the end of the row and turn.
  • For Row 2, single crochet in each stitch across the row and turn.

How to Crochet the Mini Bean Stitch

  • Always begin your row with a chain 1, insert your hook into the first stitch and pull up a loop.
  • Yarn over and insert your hook back into the same stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop.
  • You will now have 4 loops on our hook, yarn over and pull through all 4 loops on your hook.
  • Chain 1, skip next stitch, repeat bean stitch in next stitch
  • Repeat across entire row.
  • For the 2nd row of mini bean stitches, you will chain 1 and turn.
  • Complete a mini bean in top of the mini bean from the last row, skip the chain and work the next mini bean in top of the mini bean of the prior row.
  • Continue working mini bean stitch rows until your ear warmer reaches 19 1/2 inches long

See How to Crochet the Mini Bean Stitch

If you are like me, watching a tutorial is very helpful, so I created this YouTube video just for you. Click HERE to watch it on YouTube and subscribe, or just watch below:

How to Finish Ear Warmers & Sew Twisted Seam

  • Crochet 2 more rows of single crochets and then fasten off leaving a long tail of yarn you will use to sew the ends together.
  • To get the “twist” in the headband, follow this easy tutorial you can see by CLICKING HERE.

This is another fun part in making the mini bean ear warmers. I put together a tutorial on how to sew the ends together to give it that perfect twist. Click HERE to watch a quick tutorial and finish your project.

Frankenstein Crochet Hat Pattern-Free

Frankenstein is one of the oldest and most classic Halloween characters to date. That being said, it can be tricky coming up with the perfect costume for Frankenstein… until now! Grab your favorite green yarn and use your crochet skills to whip up this adorable hat.

This pattern was one of my first designs. It is a simple pattern. But, you may learn a new stitch (check out that hair… hmmm, how is that done?). The design comes with sizes from newborn up to child. The child hat will fit up to about a 12 year old, depending on their size.

Where to get your Free Frankenstein Hat pattern

Are you dying to find out where you can get the pattern? Well, the good news is that you don’t have to join any website or anything crazy like that. You can simply download the Crochet Hat pattern by clicking HERE.

Find More Adorable Free Halloween Hat patterns

I know this Frankenstein hat is about the cutest thing out there. But, I do have some other great hat designs for Halloween. And guess what, they are FREE too! You better take a peak because you may know someone who they will be perfect for.

Don’t miss out on any more Sweet Potato 3 Crochet Fun

Do you love crochet and always like to have a project in hand or a WIP (work in progress) by your side. Then you must join my Crochet & Conversations facebook group. You will not be disappointed. It is a great resource for all things crochet. Come and share your projects, ask for inspiration, see what others are working on, or just meet others who cannot get enough of this fun fiber art. To join, click HERE.

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Pumpkin Crochet Hat Pattern {Free}

Just in time for fall, I am re-releasing my pumpkin crochet hat pattern. It will now come in a new, more reader friendly format, and it is now available for FREE. See out how cute this pumpkin patch is.

The pumpkin crochet hat pattern comes in sizes from newborn up to adult. You can make one for each member of your family.

The hat is made using any worsted weight yarn. Give each hat a different look by using a different shade or orange or green for the cute curly vine that adorns the top of the hat.

Pumpkin Crochet Hat Pattern

Grab your copy of the FREE pumpkin crochet hat pattern:

The pumpkin hat is a free download, you don’t even need to be a member of a special site. Simply click on this LINK and it will download to your device. Check your device setting so you know where it will download and you can find it later.

Find more adorable crochet Halloween Hat patterns for Free

The pumpkin crochet hat pattern is just the tip of the iceberg though. I have many other fun Halloween hat patterns available on my blog as well. Check each one of them out below to find just the right one for you this year.

  • Frankenstein Crochet Hat Pattern: HERE
  • Monster Crochet Hat Pattern: HERE
  • Candy Corn Crochet Hat Pattern: HERE

Don’t miss out on any more Sweet Potato 3 Crochet Fun

Are you a crochet lover? If you are I would love to see you join my Crochet & Conversations facebook group. It is a fun and interactive group of crochet lovers. We share projects, ideas and inspiration. You can be a part of a community that you can really connect with in a “crochet kind of way”. You will not be disappointed. It is a great resource for all things crochet. To join, click HERE.

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Monster Crochet Hat Pattern {Free}

Halloween is nearly upon us! Are you ready for the big day and will you stay warm enough?

Halloween in the Northwest can be very chilly, so having a fun Halloween Hat is almost an essential. An easy hat that can also dub as a costume is this fun Monster Crochet Hat.

Monster Halloween Hat

The Monster Crochet Hat pattern is a fun and simple beanie that you can customize to make just your own! The hat pattern includes sizes for newborn up to child (about 12 years old). Then have fun customizing.

Make the hat with 1, 2 or 3 eyes. Then add as many poms in all the colors you can dream of. You can make this hat 100 different times and never have the same hat, each one can be different and unique.

Crochet Monster Hat

Where to get the Monster Hat pattern?

You can get the Monster Crochet Hat pattern for free and download directly from my site. You do not need to be a member on another page to get this crochet pattern. Grab the Monster Crochet Hat pattern for FREE by clicking HERE.

Monster Crochet Hat Pattern

Find More Adorable Halloween Crochet Hat Patterns Free

But, the monster crochet hat is not the only design I have for Halloween. I have many more and some are also available for free. Check out the links below to find one for everyone in your household, for each kid in the classroom, or each neighbor on the block.

  • Frankenstein Hat Pattern: HERE
  • Pumpkin Hat Pattern: HERE
  • Candy Corn Hat Pattern: HERE

Don’t miss out on any more Sweet Potato 3 Crochet Fun

I would love to have you join my Crochet & Conversations facebook group. It is a fun community of crocheters who enjoy seeing each others projects and cheering one another along in a fun environment. You will not be disappointed. It is a great resource for all things crochet. To join, click HERE.

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Candy Corn Crochet Hat Pattern {FREE}

One of the classic fall hats is the classic Candy Corn Hat! I cannot think of another hat that represents the sweet treats of fall better than this.

Crocheted in the popular colors of white, orange and yellow, this crochet hat pattern works up quick and is an all time favorite of many. Or, if you are one that enjoys the Indian Corn version, just work one up in white, orange and brown colors instead.

The Candy Corn hat pattern comes in sizes from newborn up to adult. You can make one of these fall hats for everyone in the family including the neighbors down the street.

Where can I get the Candy Corn Hat pattern?

You can download a copy of the Candy Corn pattern right from this post. No need to sign up for anything, it is my gift to you. Get your copy of the Candy Corn Crochet Hat pattern for Free by clicking, HERE

Find More Adorable Halloween Crochet Hat Patterns Free

As much as I love this hat for Halloween, there are some other adorable options out there. I have a few other Halloween beanies you better take a peak at:

  • Frankenstein Hat Pattern: HERE
  • Pumpkin Hat Pattern: HERE
  • Monster Hat Pattern: HERE

Don’t miss out on any more Sweet Potato 3 Crochet Fun

If you enjoy crochet and want to join a fun interactive group with like minded folks, I’d love to have you join my Crochet & Conversations group on facebook. Simply click join and answer a couple quick questions after clicking HERE.

We get the chance to meet others who also love to crochet. Share your favorite projects, yarn in your stash that you need to use up, or share your dream project. I am confident you will enjoy the conversations and will even learn a few crochet tips along the way.

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