When I first started my blog (almost 8 years ago), I posted a simple Skull & Crossbones applique pattern. A few years ago when I switched to a new website that post just vanished, I couldn’t find it anywhere. However, I kept getting requests for the pattern. After digging through files I was finally able to locate it, so today is your lucky day!
Skull & Crossbones Applique
You can make the applique in any yarn weight, just use a hook at least 1 size smaller than the recommended size on the yarn label. For the sample above, I used Red Heart Comfort (#4 weight) yarn and crochet Hook H (5.0 mm). The yarn weight and crochet hook size will affect the final size of your applique.
Completed Size of Sample Applique is
Using Hook H (5 mm)
R1: Ch 3, 12 dc in 3rd ch from hook, join with a slst in top of first dc (12 counting beg ch 2)
note: pull starting strand of yarn to close the hole made by the stitches (or you can begin with a magic circle if you prefer)
R2: Ch 2, dc in same st you joined in, dc in next st, ch 2, slst in same st as last dc (this makes the lower part of the jaw), slst in next 2 sts, [ch 6, slst in the back bar of the 3rd ch from hook, ch 3, slst in the back bar of the 3rd ch from hook, slst in the back bar of remaining 3 chs working back down to the skull, slst in the same st you beg the crossbone in], slst in the next st, repeat [], slst in next 5 sts, repeat [], slst in next 2 sts, repeat [], slst in last 2 sts, fasten off leaving a long tail of yarn to sew applique onto desired crochet piece.
Sew Applique On with Invisible Stitches
Now that you have a fun applique you need to sew it onto something. This can be applied to a hat, scarf end, pillow, bag, blanket and so many more items. The trick is to sew the applique on invisibly so you cannot see the stitching on the back side. Follow this tutorial below, I will show you how to do just that.
We all need quick projects for gifts. Especially for Christmas and this is the time of year we need to start those homemade gifts. How about making a pair of the Houndstooth Slippers?
I had so much fun designing these slippers for Christmas Gifts. The pattern works up quick and can easily be adjusted for any foot size, plus, check out the beautiful stitchwork. The color changing rows and alternating stitches creates a houndstooth pattern.
The Comfy Houndstooth Slippers are a quick project and can be made in so many fun color combinations. They work up quick and are made in an easy stitch combination that is easy to crochet.
Add a pair of Slipper to make the Ideal Gift Packages
Include a pair of these slippers to a gift package of foot soaks and lotions and you have the spa package anyone would love.
Get the Comfy Houndstooth Slippers Pattern
The Slipper pattern is made using any worsted weight yarn. It is best to use 2 colors to really see the details and how lovely the stitches work up together. The pattern comes in women’s size of: small, medium, and large (more details about the sizes are included in the pattern).
I am so excited to be able to share this fun pattern with you all for FREE. It is an easy download from my post, just make sure you know where our device will download the pattern to. All you need to do is click this LINK to download the pattern.
Join My Crochet Journey in an Interactive Setting
If you love these slippers and want to see many more fun designs from Sweet Potato 3, I would love to have you join my Crochet & Conversations facebook group. It is interactive and you can see what others are working on and share your current projects as well. Showcase your finished masterpieces and inspire others to complete theirs. You may even meet some fun individuals and learn a few tips and tricks along the way. I hope to see you in there. Just click this LINK to join.
My daughter has always had a difficult time getting to sleep at night. We have tried many different routines but when the lights go out, she thinks she will have a bad dream. I was so excited when she came home from school one day and told me one of her friends got a dream catcher and she was sure this would fix her bedtime worries.
*unknown source
This sparked an idea and I knew I had to make one for her the next day. This was such a fun and easy project that literally took an afternoon. I am excited to share this tutorial with all of you today.
For this pattern I used some beautiful cotton yarn by Paint Box, but any scrap yarn will do. Here is a list of materials needed:
Worsted Weight Scrap Yarn (sample was made from Paintbox Cotton):
Colors used in sample: Lipstick Pink (45 yards), Blush Pink (45 yards), Seafoam Blue (8 yards), Dolphin Blue (12 yards), Dusty Rose (8 yards)
Crochet Hook G (4.5 mm)
Embroider Hoop 6” or 15cm
Scissors & Yarn Needle
Gauge: gauge checks will be given throughout the pattern.
Begin with color 1 (center of dream catcher)
Ch 4, join in 1st ch to form a loop
R1: Ch 1, 8sc in loop, join in fist sc
R2: Ch 2, in same st as join work dc4tog, ch 4, [in next st dc5tog, ch 4], repeat [] to end, fasten off and weave in ends (8 puffs made)
Gauge check: measures 2” across center
Using color 2, join in any chain loop of R2
R3: Ch 1, 7sc in each ch loop around, join in 1st sc
R4: Slst in next 3 sts (you should be in the 4th sc of the 7sc in the loop), ch 12, slst in same st as last slst, [slst in next 7 sts, ch 12, slst in same st as last slst], repeat [] around, slst in next 3 sts (you should be at the beginning slst), fasten off and weave in ends (8 ch spaces made)
Gauge check; measures 3” across not including the chain loops
Using color 2 (same as last section), join in any chain loop from R4
R5: Ch 1, 10sc in chain loop, ch 2, [10sc in next ch loop, ch 2], repeat [] around, join in top of 1st sc
Gauge check: measures 5” across
R6: Slst in next 3 sts, [ch 2, skip next 2 sts, slst in next st, ch 6, skip next 8 sts, slst in next st], repeat [] around, join in slst before first ch 2 sp, fasten off and weave in ends
Gauge check: measures just under 6” across (this must be just under 6”, if it is more than 6” then your hoop will be too small, the crochet piece needs to stretch slightly to look nice)
Using color 1
Join into any ch 2 sp but also join around embroidery hoop, in the next round you will be crocheting around the embroidery hoop and in the ch sps from R6
R7: [4sc in ch 2 sp, 12sc in ch 6 sp], repeat [] around,
Note: this row is a bit awkward to crochet, I found it easiest to hold the hoop perpendicular to my body and kind of crochet sideways, but however you can do it, will work.
Almost Done!
Optional: if you feel like the edge (top of sc around hoop) are not clean and even this row will help, turn work and slst in top of each sc from R7, fasten off and weave in ends
Add the Fringe
Cut 10 strands of yarn in 5 different colors. Each strand was approximately 28” long.
Fold each strand in half and join at the fold, attach around the yarn wraps around the hoop.
Once all fringe has been attached, comb straight and trim to a “v”.
Make 2 Flowers
For the first flower I used Blue yarn and followed this beautiful pattern called the May Rose, link HERE. Take note that this pattern is in UK terms so remember the stitches in US terms are different, the difference is referenced in the pattern.
For the second flower I used pink yarn and followed the same May Rose pattern but only began with a beginning chain of 20. I then worked 3 large petals, 3 medium petals and 3 small petals.
Make 3 Leaves
Ch 6, sl st in 2nd ch from hk. Sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, 4 dc in next ch, rotate and work along bottom of foundation ch, 4dc in first ch (same ch as last dc made in), dc in next ch, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch, sl st in next, fasten off.
Make Swirled Tassel
Ch 40, sc in 5th ch from hook (the skipped ch 4 will create a loop, this loop will be where you attach the tassel later in the pattern), 2sc in each ch to end, fasten off.
To add tassel at end cut 16 pieces of yarn about 10” long, pull yarn pieces through chain 4 loop at end of tassel and fold in half
Using a contrasting color of yarn, wrap around tassel just below fold. I wrapped around about 4 times and securely tie tight, trim ends of tassel even.
Optional: add a charm and/or beads to tassel
Assembly
Attach blue flower on left side of dream catcher, where the fringe begins.
Sew pink flower just below blue flower.
Sew one leaf to the right of the pink flower, follow the same angle as the hoop,
Sew another leaf about ¾” above the blue flower also following the same angle as the hoop.
Sew last leaf under the petals of the blue flower. Angle it straight up covering the base of the last leaf sewn on.
Attach tassel to the dreamcatcher on about 1” from the fringe edge on the right side.
Tip:If the fringe on the dream catcher is not straight it may help to steam it while it is hanging.
I hope you enjoyed this crochet Dream Catcher tutorial. Make Subscribe by email {in upper right column on blog} so you don’t miss future tutorials or pattern releases. Then come join my SP3 Crochet & Conversations group on facebook, we will be started a CAL soon teaching you Tapestry Crochet, I hope to see you in there.
With Valentine’s Day right around the corner, I would like to take a minute and share my Love Bug Crochet Hat Pattern with all of you.
Holiday’s are a fun time to sport a cute “themed” hat. It is an easy way to show that you enjoy a holiday and crocheting a cap is a cute way to do just that. The Love Bug Hat is very adorable with its dangling antennas topped with hearts.
About the Love Bug Hat Pattern
The Hat pattern is a basic beanie made in the popular worsted (#4) weight yarn. Any brand will work fine with this pattern as long as you make sure to match your gauge. The amount of yarn needed will be determined by what size of hat you decide to make.
The Love Bug Hat pattern comes in sizes for newborn, 3-6 month, 6-12 month, 12-24 month and child.
Another option is to omit the antennas and attach the hearts on top of the hat. This gives you a cute loving teddy bear hat which is just as cute as the love but.
Follow Sweet Potato 3 on Facebook to see more pattern releases, sales and crochet fun, just click HERE.
However, if you would enjoy a more interactive group experience, you need to join my Crochet & Conversations facebook group, click HERE. It is a ton of fun and I encourage everyone to share their projects, WIPS (works in progress) and inspirations. Plus you get exclusive deals, are the first to see new releases, give input on designs and have opportunities to win patterns. Join now and get to know others who also enjoy the art of crochet.
I love learning new stitches with fun textures! When those stitches work up quick it is an added bonus. I know I am not the only one. Earlier this year I released a section of a CAL and everyone kept talking about how much they LOVE the stitch. I immediately knew I had to share the block stitch with everyone.
This specific block stitch has so many names that I am just calling it the Rock the Block Blanket. You will also hear it called the grid stitch, boucan stitch, leaping stripes and many more… but essentially, it is one of many different types of block stitch.
Today I am going to share with you how to work up this fun stitch and give you the pattern to work up this fun blanket in any size you want! I will also show you how to get over 6 different looks with this simple stitch pattern. So make sure you stay with me to the end.
Another HUGE advantage of working this block stitch is that the edges of the blanket are left clean. There is NO need to work an edge, WaHOO!!! I can hear you all shouting with JOY right now!
One Block Stitch / 6 Different Looks
Now this is my favorite part. Check out all the different looks you can achieve by working the block stitch. As you see all these versions, just start imagining the colors and patterns you can create as you make your Rock the Block Blanket.
First you need to decide what size of blanket you would like to make and make a note of the width and length. Here is a good visual for blanket sizes I found online (unfortunately I don’t know who the image belongs to so I cannot give proper credit).
What Pattern or How many Colors?
Yep, you have to pick one of them. I know it can be difficult but decide if you want to use one color, 2 colors or more. Then decide if you want to make your blanket with a specific pattern (1 row repeats, 2 row repeats, random, etc.), see the images earlier in this post to help you decide or watch this tutorial to see each one is worked.
Begin your Project:
Crochet a foundation row in multiples of 4 sc until the desired width is reached.
R1: Ch 1, sc in next 3 sts, [ch 2, skip next 2 sts, sc in next 2 sts], repeat [] until 5 sts remain, ch 2, skip next 2 sts, sc in next 3 sts, turn
R2: Ch 4 (counts as hdc + ch 2), skip next 3 sts, [dc in next 2 skipped sts from 2 rows prior, ch 2, skip next 2 sts], repeat [] to last st, hdc in last st, turn Note: Dc in this and following rows will be worked around/over the chain sp of the prior row, ch sp will be covered by the dc.
R3: Ch 2 (counts as a hdc), dc in next 2 skipped sts from 2 rows prior, [ch 2, skip next 2 sts, dc in next 2 skipped sts from 2 rows prior], repeat [] to last st, hdc in 2nd ch of beg ch, turn
Repeat R2 & R3 until desired length is reached
Final Row: Ch 1, sc in next 3 sts, [dc in next 2 skipped sts from 2 rows prior, sc in next 2 sts of current row], repeat [] to last st, sc in last st, fasten off and weave in all ends
I hope you love crocheting the Rock the Block Blanket as much as I did. In case you wanted to know how I worked the sample blanket up, below are my specific notes. I made this blanket as a stash buster, using up some of the yarn in my closet. I used Red Heart Super Saver yarn the a Crochet Hook I.
Begin with C1 (Light Grey) Complete R1-R15
Switch to C2 (Aruba) Complete R16-R32
Switch to C3 (Turqua) Complete R33-R35
Switch to C4 (Orchid) Complete R36-R38
Switch to C5 (Aran) Complete R39-R49
Switch to C4 (Orchid) Complete R50-R52
Switch to C6 (Amethyst) Complete R53-R65
Switch to C3 (Turqua) Complete R66-R68
Switch to C4 (Orchid) Complete R69-R73
Switch to C1 (Light Grey) Complete R74-R90
Switch to C3 (Turqua) Complete R91-R93
Switch to C2 (Aruba) Complete R94-R108
Switch to C4 (Orchid) Complete R109-R111
Switch to C3 (Turqua) Complete R112-R114
Switch to C5 (Aran) Complete R115-R128
Switch to C6 (Amethyst) Complete R129-R139
Switch to C1 (Light Grey) Complete R140-R156 + Final Row
And that sums it all up! If you give this pattern a try, please share your final project on Sweet Potato 3’s facebook page so everyone can see how beautiful it really is.
Animal hats are a fun way to show off someones personality, interests and is also an easy way to dress up for Halloween. I originally designed the frog hat pattern for newborn photos, a popular request years ago. To make my design stand out and feature something different I added frog feet to the ear flaps!
The hat is a classic beanie that covers the ears. The pattern now includes sizes from newborn up to Children! Add a simple flower to the side to give it a more feminine touch.
Frog Hat Material List
Crochet Hook Size J (6 mm)
Crochet Hook Size K (6.5 mm)
Optional for flower – Crochet Hook Size H (5 mm)
Worsted (#4) weight yarn – approximately 60-180 yards depending on the size of hat you are making
Yarn Needle, Scissors & Measuring Tape
Stitches & Abbreviations Used in Pattern
Hdc = half double crochet
Sc = single crochet
Ch = chain
Slst = slip stitch
Hdc2tog = half double crochet next two stitches together, decrease
Join = join with a slst
St(s) = Stitch(es)
R = Round/Row
Check Your Gauge
When the completed size of your finished crochet project is important (very important in anything you wear), you must check gauge. This will ensure that your final piece will be the appropriate sizing. Change or adjust your hook to obtain the proper gauge: if your swatch is too small go UP a hook size, if you swatch is too large go DOWN a hook size.
For the frog hat use crochet hook K and work up a swatch of half double crochets to check: 9 rows with 12 hdc = 4 inches square.
Hat Sizing
Newborn (12 ¼ ” around & 5” high – fits up to 14” circumference) 3 to 6 Months (14” around & 5 ½ “ high – fits up to 15″ or 16″ circumference) 6 to 12 Months (16″ around & 6” high – fits up to 18″ circumference) 12 to 24 Months (17″ around & 6 ½ “ high – fits up to 19″ circumference) Child (18” around & 7 ½ “ high – fits up to 20″ circumference)
Frog Hat Pattern
Follow the instructions for my Basic Hat with Ear Flap Option, then come back to this post for your final round of hat. The final round is where you will add the cute frog feet!
You will now complete the final round of the hat, please read all instructions for this section before you begin.
With hook K Ch 1, sc in each stitch down side of earflap, around hat, up earflap to the tip.
Once you reach the center stitch on the tip of the earflap you will make the ties with feet.
Switch to hook J, ch 31, work 2hdc in 3rd ch from hook, Ch 2, turn
1hdc in first st, 2hdc in next st, 2hdc in top of beginning ch, turn
*Ch 5, work 3hdc in 2nd ch from hook, slst in remaining 3ch, now insert hook into beginning stitch (that your ch 5 started from), bring up a loop, insert hook into next st, bring up a loop, yarn over and bring through all loops (sc2tog made)* repeat 3 more times eliminating the sc2tog after last one.
We will now work our way back up the tie, work 3 slst along the foot to bring you to the bottom of the tie
Switch back to hook K, 1 sc in next 5 chains, hdc in remaining chains
Continue your sc down the other side of the earflap, around hat, back up other earflap, repeating tie & foot pattern at earflap tip.
Join in the 1st sc made in your final round, fasten off and weave in all ends
Frog Eyes – make 2
With Hook J & Black yarn
R1: Ch 3, 7 hdc in 3rd ch from hook, join (8)
R2: Switch to White yarn, ch 2, hdc in same st as joining, 2 hdc in each st around, join (16) fasten off
With green yarn follow the same instructions as above through Row 2 but do NOT fasten off. At the end of Row 2, place the white eye piece on top of the green color piece (they should line up and be the same size), you will now stitch them together as you complete the final round working all the stitches through both stitches of both eye pieces.
Final Round: slst in the first stitch of round 2 (of both eye pieces), ch 2, hdc in the same stitch you just joined in, hdc in next st, (2hdc in next st, 1hdc in next st) repeat around, fasten off leaving enough yarn to sew to hat.
Optional Flower
With Hook H
R1: Ch 2, 10 sc in 2nd ch from hook, join in top of beg ch (10)
R2: Work front loops only, (ch 3, slst in next st) repeat around
R3: Work back loops only from R1,(ch 2, dc in same st, 1dc in next st, ch 1, slst into same st as dc, slst into next st) repeat 4 more times, fasten off (5 petals), sew to hat.
If you like the frog hat, you’ll love this twist on it!
Last week, I had a customer contact me about making a Cookie Monster Hat. I sat down to draw up the pattern and soon realized it was nearly identical to my frog hat! Yipee!!! I quickly used the same pattern with just a few minor changes and Ta Da!!
Do you see the similarity? How did I do it?
Follow the Child’s size Frog Hat Pattern exactly using blue yarn. Then crochet the eyes solid white and made a simple black round piece (with 7 hdc in the circle) and sewed them onto the eyes off balanced.
For the mouth I worked as follows (remember this is for the child sized hat):
Using black yarn and a Crochet Hook I (5.5 mm)
Foundation hdc 16 (tutorial for foundation hdc here)
R1: Ch 2, hdc2tog, hdc in next 2 sts, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 5 sts, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in last st, turn (17)
R2: Ch 3, dc3tog, hdc in next 8 sts, dc3tog, dc in last st, turn (12)
R3: Ch 3, dc3tog, hdc in next 5 sts, dc3tog, dc in last st, turn (9)
R4: Ch 3, dc3tog, hdc in next 2 sts, dc3tog, dc in last st, turn (6)
R5: ch 1, sc across entire row and around entire mouth piece, sew onto front center of hat. Make sure when you reach the top corners of the mouth to embroider a small smile line, secure with a knot and weave in all ends.
For the Cookies I worked as follows:
Using medium brown yarn and a Crochet Hook I (5.5 mm)
R1: Ch 2, work 7 sc in 2nd ch from hook, join in top of beg sc (7)
R2: Ch 2, hdc in first st, 2hdc in each st around, join (14)
R3: Ch 1, [2sc in next st, sc in next st], repeat [] around, (21)
If this is your first piece, using a darker color yarn (dark brown or black) embroider small lines to represent Chocolate Chips.
Repeat R1-R3, lay your first piece on top of your current piece and slst through the sc from R3, working through both circle pieces. This just reinforces the cookies. Make 2 cookies and sew onto the hands (or frog feet). For the cookie next to the mouth, just make one side and sew onto the corner of the mouth, there is no need to have it stronger so do not make the back side of the cookie.
I hope you found this fun! I love seeing how others have taken a Sweet Potato 3 pattern and customized it in their own unique way. If you have done this, please share it with me, I love to be inspired! Tag me on IG or FB with @SweetPotato3Patterns or join my SP3 Crochet & Conversations group for more interactive fun.
Some days you just need a quick, easy, but fun crochet pattern to work on.
Therefore, I am sharing one of my freebies with all of you. The One Cup at a Time Coaster pattern works up really quick, uses a fun stitch combination and your finished project is useful to have around. The coasters can be added to a gift, it’s that handmade touch everyone loves to receive.
One Cup At a Time Coaster Details
The pattern uses a sports weight (#2) yarn and a G (4.25 mm) crochet hook. However, if you have a different yarn weight around, go ahead and give that a try as well. You finished coaster may come out bigger, or thicker, but it will still work.
Each individual Coaster will be about 4″ X 4″ square, unless you use a different weight yarn. A larger coaster made in a worsted weight may be used as a small trivet. Oh, I love finding patterns that can be used for multiple purposes.
You can download a your own copy of the One Cup At A Time Coaster, right here on my blog. No need to join a website. Download the Coaster crochet pattern by clicking HERE
Another Cozy Pattern You May Like
FREE Coffee Cozy Sweater Wrap crochet pattern: click HERE
More Crochet Fun
I hope you look forward to seeing more projects and designs by Sweet Potato 3. If you like this please follow SP3 on Facebook, HERE. Sign up for my Newsletter {sign up form is in the right sidebar of the blog}.
If you love all things crochet please come over and join my Crochet & Conversations facebook group, HERE. It is a more interactive group of crocheters and a ton of fun, plus you get exclusive deals! Join now and get to know others who has similar interest.
Today is your lucky day. I am giving everyone the Coffee Cozy Sweater Wrap!!! Grab this pattern for Free and whip up a few in time for Holiday Parties. They make great hostess gifts, are big sellers at craft fairs and are just fun to have around the house for when company comes.
The Coffee Cozy pattern is great for beginners.
I designed the Cozy pattern for beginners to practice crocheting the basic single crochet stitch. The pattern comes with 4 options. Each option has a different look, all while using the single crochet stitch.
My hope is to help those new to crochet work on a quick project that they will get excited about completing and want to make more and learn more. Seriously, check out how different all the textures are in the photo below. Each sample is crocheted using the single crochet stitch, just in different ways.
These cozies are perfect for quick gifts during the holidays. The Coffee Cozy Sweater Wrap fits most 8-12 oz coffee cups, or taller 16 oz cups. Cups with handles will help hold the cozy inplace but are not required.
Gift Ideas
Make a cozy and add it to a cute mug, throw in some hot cocoa packets with candy canes, or tea with an infuser, or go the coffee route and add some gourmet brew and fun creamer packs. Any theme you decide to create and give will be loved by all. They are great gifts alone or make an entire set.
I plan on having my set out for the holidays, they make great cup markers so everyone knows which cup of coffee is theirs.
Custom design requests can be so much fun. I love working with creative ideas that haven’t been done before. That is exactly what I had come in a few weeks ago from a photographer who had a Momma request a vintage flip hat for her sons one year photo shoot.
She specifically wanted a hat that resembled a cap that the grandfather wore when he worked at their gas station. She found an image online that looked similar and I put my yarn and hook to work to create a design that made her photoshoot personal and so darn cute.
The Vintage Flip Cap fit the picture layout perfect, especially on this sweet little guy. I am drooling over how cute it came together.
About the Vintage Flip cap pattern
The design of the cap is pretty basic. But take note, it sits just above the ears, not covering them like in a traditional cap. The character really comes into play with the flip in the oversized bill. This was the feature that Sherry (the photographer) was most looking forward to being a key in the design.
Check out these views to see the extra long brim and the flip. On a side note, please excuse the watermelon I used as a prop-LOL, it was the only thing that I had on hand to fit the 12 month cap size.
Front View
Side View
Materials Needed for the Vintage Flip Cap
Crochet Hook Size K (6.50 mm)
Crochet Hook Size H (5.00 mm)
Worsted (#4) weight yarn – between 50-170 yards depending on the size of hat you are making
Measuring Tape
Yarn Needle
Scissors
Sizes available in the pattern
Newborn (12 ¼” around – fits up to 14” circumference)
3 to 6 Months (14” around – fits up to 15″ or 16″ circumference)
6 to 12 Months (16″ around – fits up to 18″ circumference)
12 to 24 Months (17″ around – fits up to 19″ circumference)
Youth / Ladies (19” around – fits up to 21” circumference))
Adult / Men’s (20” around – fits up to 22” circumference)
Meet Gauge
Check your gauge by crocheting 9 rows of 12 hdc with crochet hook K (6.50 mm), this should measure 4″ square.
If your gauge swatch is larger (smaller) then adjust your hook down (up) one size and retry to match the gauge swatch. Continue to repeat until the gauge has been meet. Failure to do this will result in your hat being the wrong size and we don’t want that to happen.
Stitches/Abbreviations Used in the Vintage Flip Cap Pattern:
Hdc = half double crochet
Sc = single crochet
Sc2tog = single crochet next 2 stitches together
Ch = chain
Slst = slip stitch
Join = this means to join the rounds together with a slip stitch in the first stitch of the round
St(s) = stitch(es)
R = round or row
Pattern Notes
The pattern is written for the smallest size with adjustments made in parenthesis for subsequent larger sizes. Example: sc in next 5 (6, 7, 8) stitches = sc in next newborn size (3-6 month, 6-12 month, 12-24 month)
If there is no notation work the row as stated for all sizes.
Do NOT count the beginning chain of the rounds.
To get the front brim to lay correctly you will put the hat on with the flap over your face, fold on about row 3 of the brim, not where the brim joins the hat, see picture below:
Pattern for vintage flip cap Crown:
All sizes of the hat will begin with Crochet Hook K (6.50 mm)
R1: Ch 2, 7 sc in 2nd ch from hook, join in the 1st sc made to form a round, pull beginning end of yarn to close hole (alternatively-you may begin with a magic circle), (7 st)
R2: Ch 1, 2hdc in each st around, join in top of beg hdc (14)
R3: Ch 1, 2hdc in 1st st, hdc in next st, [2hdc in next st, hdc in next st], repeat [] around, join (21)
R4: Ch 1, 2hdc in 1st st, hdc in each of the next 2 sts, [2hdc in next st, hdc in each of the next 2 sts], repeat [] around, join (28)
R5: Ch 1, 2hdc in 1st st, hdc in each of the next 3 sts, [2hdc in next st, hdc in each of the next 3 sts], repeat [] around, join (35)
Newborn Size: continue to main body of hat
3-6 Month Size:
R6: Ch 1, hdc in 1st st, hdc in each of the next 11 sts, 2hdc in next st, hdc in each of the next 10 sts, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 11 sts, join (38) continue to main body of hat
6-12 & 12-24 Month Sizes:
R6: Ch 1, hdc in 1st st, hdc in each of the next 4 sts, [2hdc in next st, hdc in each of the next 4 sts], repeat [] around, join (42) 6-12 month size continue to main body of hat
12-24 Month Size (make sure you completed R6 above):
R7: Ch 1, hdc in 1st st, hdc in each of the next 13 st, [2hdc in next st, hdc in each of the next 13 sts], repeat [] around, join (45) continue to main body of hat
Pattern for main body of hat:
Ch 1, hdc in each st around, join (35, 38, 42, 45)
Newborn Size: repeat for a total of 4 rows (or end on round 9)
3-6 Month Size: repeat for a total of 4 rows (or end on round 10)
6-12 Month Size: repeat for a total of 5 rows (or end on round 11)
12-24 Month Size: repeat for a total of 5 rows (or end on round 12)
After final round has been completed fasten off, mark where you left off and weave in ends. Continue to Brim of Hat
Pattern for Brim/Oversized Bill of hat:
Switch to crochet hook H (5.00 mm).
To begin the brim, count 10 (11, 12, 13) stitches to the left of the back seam, join with a slst in the 10th (11th, 12th, 13th) st.
R1: Ch 1, [2sc in next st, sc in next st], repeat [] for a total of 7 (8, 9, 9) times, turn (21, 24, 27, 27)
R2: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each of the next 17 (20, 23, 23) sts, sc2tog, turn (19, 22, 25, 25)
R3: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn (19, 22, 25, 25)
R4: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each of the next 15 (18, 21, 21) sts, sc2tog, turn (17, 20, 23, 23)
R5: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn (17, 20, 23, 23)
R6: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each of the next 13 (16, 19, 19) sts, sc2tog, turn (15, 18, 21, 21)
R7: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn (15, 18, 21, 21)
R8: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each of the next 11 (14, 17, 17) sts, sc2tog, turn (13, 16, 19, 19)
R9: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn (13, 16, 19, 19)
R10: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each of the next 9 (12, 15, 15) sts, sc2tog, turn (11, 14, 17, 17)
R11: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each of the next 7 (10, 13, 13) sts, sc2tog, turn (9, 12, 15, 15)
R12: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each of the next 5 (8, 11, 11) sts, sc2tog, turn (7, 10, 13, 13)
R13: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each of the next 3 (6, 9, 9) sts, sc2tog, turn (5, 8, 11, 11)
Newborn & 3-6 Month Size: continue to final round.
R14: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each of the next 0 (0, 7, 7) sts, sc2tog, turn (0, 0, 9, 9)
R15: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each of the next 0 (0, 5, 5) sts, sc2tog, turn (0, 0, 7, 7)
6-12 & 12-24 Month Size: continue to final round.
Final Round:
Right side of hat should be facing you.
Ch 1, sc in each row end of the brim (working from last row of brim down to R1).
Change to crochet hook K (6.50 mm), sc in each st around last row of the main body of hat
Change back to crochet hook H (5.00 mm), sc in each row end of the brim (working from R1 up to last row of brim)
Single crochet in each of the stitches along the front of the brim (last row of brim),
Do not join
Continue to work around the entire row working a spike stitch over each of the sts from the final round.
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This fun cowl is quick to make and would be fun in any colors. I personally like the vibrant and bright colors for the dreary days of winter. Seriously, we haven’t seen sunshine for almost 3 weeks. I needed something bright and colorful to work on!
Save this pattern in your Ravelry Account for easy access.
For the cowl, it is a very basic crochet pattern and can easily be adjusted for any size. I made the child size but alternative stitch counts in parenthesis would be for an adult size.
The Cowl Pattern:
For your gauge check use Hook K = 9 rows and 12 hdc = 4 inches square
Using Worsted Weight Yarn and Crochet Hook K (6.5 mm)
Work 65 (80) foundationless hdc, join in first hdc making sure not to twist, this will form a ring (tutorial here-also know as a foundation hdc- I know that doesn’t make much sense)
Row 2-18 (24): Ch 2, hdc in each st around, join, after last row is completed, Fasten off and bury all ends, You will need to also sew/join the bottom of the first and last hdc from the foundation row.
Laying flat the completed measurements for the cowl are: Child Size = 11 inches wide X 8 inches high Adult Size = 15 inches wide X 10 1/2 inches high
For the Mustache I used the pattern by Jessica Chong on Ravelry. Again I used worsted weight yarn but used a crochet hook K (6.5 mm) instead of what was recommended. The pattern is very easy to follow and works up quick.
I sewed on the mustache to the cowl so that the top of the mustache was just below the 3rd row from the top (the mustache curl tips was about 1 1/2 rows from the top).
Look how cute and easy they turned out. This pattern is sure to be a hit for whoever receives the finished cowl and will turn heads and make all who see it smile!
Well you are in luck, I offer a FREE pattern for a basic hat that includes the options to add ear flaps. I even have a sample with the same mustache on it. Get more information on the Free Basic Hat pattern by clicking this LINK.
One of the most popular crochet pieces is a hat. They are fun and quick to make with the right pattern. Today I am offering my basic crochet hat pattern for free. The pattern includes the option to add ear flaps. Once you have the basic hat pattern the opportunities are endless with what you can make.
The Basic Crochet Hat Pattern includes all sizes from newborn up to adult. You can make it in a solid color, add stripes, or add the ear flaps… can you start to envisions some fun possibilities.
I used the hat pattern to make some fun custom Valentines Day hats. Check out how cute they turned out.
All these hats look different by adding a different colored band, or adding stripes throughout the hat. Adding ear flaps also gives it a whole new look. Then add cute appliques, like hearts or mustaches. Embroider letters to make them pop or add cute messages. You can find the Free Mustache Pattern I used from Tutus & Tea Parties, it was very simple to follow and I LOVE how it turned out (check out my free cowl pattern that I also used it on by clicking this link).
I hope you enjoy the free hat pattern (and cowl) and come back to try some more designs by Sweet Potato 3.
Join more Crochet Fun
If you enjoyed this pattern or want to be in the loop on more fun crochet designs, interact with other crochet fanatics and show off your crochet work, join my Crochet & Conversations group. All the members are so fun and it can be a great resource for any and everything crochet related. I hope to meet you in there. Click this link to join.
Over the years I have received many request for cute hat designs, usually for kids. A few weeks ago a request came in from an Oregon State fan for a Beaver Hat!
Yes, you heard that right, they wanted a cute hat to wear to the football games. I had already designed a beaver newborn photo prop so all I had to do was tweak it a little to add to a hat. But, I knew with this request it wouldn’t be just for the little ones, I had a feeling Mom & Dad would want one too.
And I was right, as soon as I sent them a photo of the little hat, they placed an order for 2 adult hats. There is a lot of gratification in designing something that is so personal to others.
Beaver Hats & Newborn Photo Props
If you think the beaver hat shown above is cute, I need you to take a peak at the newborn prop.
It isn’t cute just for Oregon State fans. I grew up in American Falls Idaho and our school mascot was also the Beaver, so I had contacted a relative who is an amazing photographer back home and sent her a prop to photograph as well. Lindsay Marie Photography did not disappoint, serious cuteness overload below:
Please check gauge, if you do not take the time to check your gauge, your hat may not come out the right size. Adjust your hook to obtain gauge. If your swatch is too large, go down a hook size. If your swatch is too small, go up a hook size.
Using the larges crochet hook K (6.5 mm) work 9 rows of 12 half double crochet, your swatch should be 4 inches square.
Follow the Basic Hat Pattern
As mentioned earlier, the hat comes in sizes from Newborn up to Adult. Follow the Basic Hat Pattern working with your crochet hook K and the medium brown color. I made a traditional hat for my Beaver design, but the instructions include an option to add earflaps, you are more than welcome to add them to your design.
Now for the fun, it is time to add the details of the ears, eyes, face and of course the signature teeth. The tail will be last, as it is a signature component as well.
Ears – Make 2 for hat
Newborn, 3-6 month & 6-12 month sizes: use crochet hook I (5.5 mm) & medium brown yarn
R1: Ch 3, 10 hdc in 3rd chain from hook (1st ch made), join in top of beg hdc (10)
R2: Ch 2, hdc in same st you joined in, hdc in next st, ch 1, sc in the side of the hdc just made, slst in same st hdc was made in, sc in next 8 st, slst in same st as beg ch 2, slst along the side of the beginning ch 2, fasten off leaving enough yarn to sew ears to hat.
12-24 month, Child, Teen/Ladies & Adult/Men sizes: use crochet hook J (6.0 mm) & medium brown yarn
R1: Ch 3, 12 dc in 3rd chain from hook (1st cn made), join in top of beg dc (12)
R2: Ch 2, hdc in same st you joined in, hdc in next st, ch 1, sc in the side of the hdc just made, slst in same st hdc was made in, sc in next 10 st, slst in same st as beg ch 2, slst along the side of the beg ch 2, fasten off leaving enough yarn to sew ears to hat.
Eyes – Make 2 for Hat
Newborn and 3-6 month sizes: use crochet hook H (5.0 mm) & black yarn
6-12 month size: use crochet hook I (5.5 mm) & black yarn
Chain 2, work 7 sc in 2nd ch from hook (1st chain made), join in top of beg sc (7) fasten off, leaving enough yarn to sew eye to hat. Using white yarn, embroider a small “V” on the eye.
12-24 month & Child sizes: use crochet hook H (5.0 mm) & black yarn
Teen/Ladies & Adult/Men sizes: use hook I (5.5 mm) & black yarn
Chain 3, work 9 hdc in 3rd ch from hook (1st chain made), join in top of beg hdc (9) fasten off, leaving enough yarn to sew eye to hat. Using white yarn, embroider a small “V” on the eye.
Nose of Beaver
Newborn and 3-6 month sizes: use crochet hook I (5.5 mm) & dark brown yarn
6-12 month size: use crochet hook J (6.0 mm) & dark brown yarn
Chain 3, in 3rd chain from hook (1st chain made) work the following sts (4hdc, 4sc, 2hdc), join in top of beginning hdc (10) fasten off, leaving enough yarn to sew nose to hat.
12-24 month and Child sizes: use crochet hook I (5.5 mm) & dark brown yarn
Teen/Ladies and Adult/Men sizes: use crochet hook J (6.0 mm) & dark brown yarn
Chain 3, in 3rd chain from hook (1st chain made) work the following sts (4dc, hdc, 4sc, hdc, 2dc), join in top of beginning dc (12) fasten off, leaving enough yarn to sew nose to hat.
Teeth – Make 2
Newborn, 3-6 month and 6-12 month sizes: use crochet hook G (4.5 mm) and white yarn
Chain 4, sc in 2nd chain from hook, sc in next st, 2sc in last st, rotate and work the bottom side of the beg ch, work 2sc in opposite side of chain that you just worked the 2sc in, sc in next ch, sc in last ch, fasten off leaving enough yarn to sew to hat.
12-24 month and Child sizes: use crochet hook H (5.0 mm) and white yarn
Teen/Ladies and Adult/Men size: use crochet hook I (5.5 mm) and white yarn
Chain 5, sc in 2nd chain from hook, sc in next 2 sts, 2sc in last st, rotate and work the bottom side of the beg ch, work 2sc in opposite side of chain that you just worked the 2sc in, sc in next 3 chs, fasten off leaving enough yarn to sew to hat.
Face/Muzzle of Beaver Hat (section behind Nose)
Newborn, 3-6 month and 6-12 month sizes: use crochet hook J (6.0 mm) & cream yarn
R1: Ch 9, hdc in 3rd chain from hook and in each remaining st (8) turn
R2: Ch 2, hdc2tog, hdc in next 3, hdc2tog (6) turn
R3: Ch 2, hdc2tog, hdc in next st, hdc2tog (4) turn
Final round: Ch 1, sc in each st across row 3, rotate and sc along the side of each row, rotate and sc along base of row 1, rotate and sc along the side of each row, join in top of beg sc, fasten off leaving enough yarn to sew to hat.
12-24 month and Child sizes: use crochet hook J (6.0 mm) & cream yarn
R1: Ch 11, hdc in 3rd chain from hook and in each remaining st (10) turn
R2: Ch 2, hdc2tog, hdc in next 5, hdc2tog (8) turn
R3: Ch 2, hdc2tog, hdc in next 3, hdc2tog (6) turn
R4: Ch 2, hdc2tog, hdc in next st, hdc2tog (4) turn
Final round: Ch 1, sc in each st across row 4, rotate and sc along the side of each row, rotate and sc along base of row 1, rotate and sc along the side of each row, join in top of beg sc, fasten off leaving enough yarn to sew to hat.
Teen/Ladies and Adult/Men sizes: use crochet hook J (6.0 mm) and cream yarn
R1: Ch 11, hdc in 3rd chain from hook and in each remaining st (10) turn
R2: Ch 2, hdc2tog, hdc in next 5, hdc2tog (8) turn
R3: Ch 2, hdc2tog, hdc in next 3, hdc2tog (6) turn
R4: Ch 2, hdc in each st across (6) turn
R5: Ch 2, hdc2tog, hdc in next st, hdc2tog (4) turn
Final round: Ch 1, sc in each st across row 5, rotate and sc along the side of each row, rotate and sc along base of row 1, rotate and sc along the side of each row, join in top of beg sc, fasten off leaving enough yarn to sew to hat.
Tail Pattern – will be made the same for all sizes of hat
The tail will be made by crocheting two pieces (top & bottom) and sewing them together. The first section made will be the bottom. The second piece will be made with a criss-cross pattern and will be the top of the tail.
Tail (bottom section):
With Crochet Hook K (6.5 mm) and dark brown yarn.
R1: Ch 9, dc in 3rd chain from hook and in each remaining st (8) turn
R2: Ch 2, 2dc in first st, dc in next 5 st, 2dc in last st (10) turn
R3: Ch 2, 2dc in first st, dc in next 7 st, 2dc in last st (12) turn
R4: Ch 2, 2dc in first st, dc in next 9 st, 2dc in last st (14) turn
R5: Ch 2, dc2tog, dc in next 9, dc2tog (12) turn
R6: Ch 2, dc2tog, dc in next 7, dc2tog (10) turn
R7: Ch 2, dc2tog, dc in next 5, dc2tog (8) turn
R8: Ch 2, dc2tog, dc in next 3, dc2tog (6) turn
R9: Ch 2, dc in each st across (6) turn
R10: Ch 2, dc in each st across (6) fasten off and weave in ends.
Tail (top section):
The top section of the tail will be made with the same pattern as the bottom except the stitches will be made in a criss-cross pattern.
R1: Ch 9, dc in 3rd ch from hook, dc in next st, (skip next st, dc in next st, cross over the dc you just made and dc in the skipped st) repeat 1 more time, dc in each of the next 2 sts (8) turn (this creates a criss-cross pattern and will be used in all the remaining rows)
R2: Ch 2, dc in first 2 sts, cross over and dc in the first st again, (skip 1 unworked st, dc in next st, dc in previous unworked st) repeat to last st, dc in last st, cross over and dc in previous st already worked, (10) turn
R3: Ch 2, dc in first 2 sts, cross over and dc in the first st again, (skip 1 unworked st, dc in next st, dc in previous unworked st) repeat to last st, dc in last st, cross over and dc in previous st already worked, (12) turn
R4: Ch 2, dc in first 2 sts, cross over and dc in the first st again, (skip 1 unworked st, dc in next st, dc in previous unworked st) repeat to last st, dc in last st, cross over and dc in previous st already worked, (14) turn
R5: Ch 2, skip 1st st and dc2tog, dc in previous skipped st, (skip 1 unworked st, dc in next st, dc in previous unworked st) 4 times, dc2tog (12) turn
R6: Ch 2, skip 1st st and dc2tog, dc in previous skipped st, (skip 1 unworked st, dc in next st, dc in previous unworked st) 3 times, dc2tog (10) turn
R7: Ch 2, skip 1st st and dc the next 2 st together, dc in previous skipped st, (skip 1 unworked st, dc in next st, dc in previous unworked st) 2 times, dc2tog (8) turn
R8: Ch 2, skip 1st st and dc2tog, dc in previous skipped st, skip 1 unworked st, dc in next st, dc in previous unworked st, dc2tog (6) turn
R9: Ch 2, dc in each st across (6) turn
R10: Ch 2, dc in each st across do not turn, go to final round
Final Round of Tail
You will now crochet the top and bottom pieces together. Lay the top piece on top of the bottom piece so the last st of Row 10 from both pieces are together. Chain 1 and sc going through the top and then the bottom piece, work 1 sc in each st around, join in the top of the 1st sc, fasten off leaving enough yarn to sew tail to hat.
Sewing on the pieces / appliques
You are so close to finishing, all you have left is the dreading sewing. Yes, I totally agree with you, sewing on appliques is not fun. However, I put together a tutorial on how I sew on my appliques, it walks you through step by step, I hope you find this helpful.
orders of sewing on the appliques
Lay the ears where you like their placement and sew onto the top of the hat. Make sure you check the placement after you sew each piece. This will help ensure the second ear lines up correctly with the first one.
Sew the teeth to the bottom and back of the face piece.
Stitch the nose onto the top and front of the face piece.
Sew the entire face piece to the bottom of the hat making sure it is centered with the ears.
Sew the 2 black eyes on, making sure to check the placement after the 1st eye is sewn on.
The final step is to sew on the tail. Turn the hat over, making sure the criss cross stitching is on top and will be seen while wearing the hat. Center the tail with the ears, sew the tail onto the rows of sc at the base of the hat. Stitch it on going across one row of stitches then repeat again going across the next row of stitches.
Today I spent cleaning out my craft room. While I was going through my huge yarn stash I found a beautiful skein of super bulky yarn. It was so soft and the colors reminded me of spring. I knew I had to make something quick and fun and wanted it to be something useful. So the Simple Crochet Basket popped into my mind!
The Simple Crochet Basket was perfect to have on a stand and keep my current WIPs (works in progress). It is small enough to keep those small remnants of yarn, my hooks and project all just fit perfectly.
With my Simple Crochet Basket done, it dawned on me {face to palm… duh}, this will work for an EASTER BASKET too! I am still not sure, why that idea didn’t pop into my head first, but, somethings, this is just how it works out.
I mean seriously, it is too cute! The basket is only about 8″ across the bottom. So, this is especially perfect for a small display or a small child. I have mine sitting out right now next to my entry way.
The pattern is so basic and works up quick. I couldn’t keep it to myself. I want you to go dig through your stash and then head over and grab your copy of the Simple Crochet Basket for
If you love this idea and pattern, please make a point to visit Sweet Potato 3 on facebook. We have a ton of fun, share cute project ideas, you’ll be the first to know about pattern releases, sales and just enjoy lot’s of crochet fun!
Spring is nearly here and it is time to start switching from crocheting cold weather hats to spring and summer items. Sometimes it is difficult to find a fun, quick summer crochet project. However, today I have a very cute and simple flower headband tutorial you are going to love.
A Quick Stash Buster Project for Craft Fairs
The pattern for the Simple Flower Headband works up quick. It is an easy 2 rows that you will memorize and make up a whole dozen before you know it!
Another fun feature about this pattern is you can customize it to be crocheted with any weight of yarn. That means this is an amazing stash buster project to help you use up your left over yarn.
Craft Fair Idea
A quick project that uses up your left over yarn and turns out is simply adorable! All these features make the Simple Flower Headband is a great idea for craft fairs.
Materials Needed for the Flower Headband
Yarn of any weight (see images below to see difference in how the headband will look with a thicker or thinner yarn weight)
Crochet Hook that is 1 size smaller than the recommended hook size on yarn label. In the samples on my daughter (in the photos) I used Caron Simple Soft (pink one) and Crochet Hook G (4.25 mm). The green sample was made with Lydia thread #10 and Crochet Hook 1 (2.75 mm).
Measuring Tape
Yarn Needle
Scissors
Stitches and Abbreviations Used
Ch = Chain Sc = Single Crochet Dc = Double Crochet Tc3tog = Treble Crochet 3 Together
Treble Crochet 3 Together Instructions: [yarn over 2 times, insert hook (these will all be completed in the same chain space), pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through 2 loops], repeat for a total of 3 times, you will have 4 loops on your hook, yarn over and pull through all 4 loops
Gauge Information
Typically you will hear me preach about how important it is to check your gauge. But, for this pattern, there will be no gauge check. Since you can pick any yarn weight each headband you make may be made with a different stitch count to reach the desired size.
The pattern will be made according to measurements, so make sure you have a measuring tape, ruler or some for of measuring tool on hand.
Headband Sizing Guide
You can make your headband in any size and to do this, you will need to utilize the sizing guide below:
Newborn: desired length 12 ¼” – fits up to 14” circumference
3 to 6 Months: desired length 14” – fits up to 15″ or 16″ circumference
6 to 12 Months: desired length 16″ – fits up to 18″ circumference
12 to 24 Months: desired length 17″ – fits up to 19″ circumference
Child: desired length 18” – fits up to 20″ circumference
Teen / Ladies: desired length 19” – fits up to 21” circumference
The Simple Flower Headband Pattern
Ch 7, dc in 4th ch from hook, [ch 8, dc in 4th ch from hook], repeat [] until you reach the *desired length (desired length can be found under the sizing guide above). Ch 5 more, do not turn, instead you will rotate the chain and work along the opposite side/this is the same as if you were to turn and work along the beginning chain).
Crochet the following in the dc/ch space [tc3tog, ch 6, tc3tog], repeat [] in each dc/ch space to end, ch 2 (there will be 3 chs of the beginning ch left), slst in ch at the end.
Rotate your work, you will now crochet along the opposite side of the beg chain. Ch 2, [tc3tog, ch 6, tc3tog], repeat [] in each dc/ch space to end. Ch 2, slst in the 3rd ch of the ch 5.
For the second round begin with a Ch 1, work 3 sc in 1st ch space, [sc in top of tc3tog, 6 sc in ch space, (in top of the next 2 tc3tog work a sc2tog, 6sc in next ch sp), repeat () to end of the top part of your row. Sc in top of last tc3tog, at end of row work 3 sc in each of the next 2 ch sps, sc in top of next st. Begin row with 6sc in next ch sp, repeat () to the end of the row, sc in next st, 3sc in last ch sp, join with an invisible join (click HERE for tutorial) fasten off, leaving tail to sew ends.
Making sure the headband is not twisted, sew the ends of the row together to complete your headband. Now you know how quick and easy that was. have fun and play with different yarn weights to create the perfect look for you.
Watch a tutorial on creating the simple flower headband
Other Crochet Patterns You May Love
How to Make a Twist Ear Warmer / Headband (free tutorial) – click HERE
If you make something from a Sweet Potato 3 pattern I would love to see it. Join my interactive Facebook group called, SP3 Crochet & Conversations, for tons of fun, just click HERE. Then you can also follow @SweetPotato3Patterns on Instagram and tag me in your project. I hope to see your crochet projects soon.
Newborn photos are a family keepsake. Photographers who specialize in capturing this precious time in a newborns life are beyond talented. They rely on trending photo props and soft textures are so appealing and trendy right now. My latest crochet pattern, the cabled bucket wrap, has all those features.
The bucket wrap is designed to simply tie around a bucket. No need for the photographer to search high and low for the perfect side of bucket to nestle the baby in. Instead wrap it around your favorite one for a whole new look.
Making the Cable Bucket Wrap
The luxurious cables intertwine using a super bulky yarn, so it works up quick and creates the rich texture in no time at all. The wrap is made as a flat wrap that ties around the bucket allowing flexibility in used. The bucket in the image shown above is about 9″ tall and 11″ across the top opening.
Materials needed to make the Cable Bucket Wrap:
Crochet Hook size P (10 mm)
Super Bulky Weight Yarn ~ about 185 yards / Sample was made using Lion Brand in Houston Cream
Scissors
X-Large Yarn Needle or smaller crochet hook to weave in ends
Stitches & Abbreviations Used in the Pattern
Ch = Chain
Hdc = Half Double Crochet
Dc = Double Crochet
Tc = Treble Crochet
FP = Front Post
BP = Back Post
Size Gauge:
Please check gauge for appropriate sizing, change hook to correct size to obtain gauge.
With Hook P: 5 rows with 8 hdc = 4 ½” wide X 4” tall
Finished Cable Bucket Wrap Size:
Bucket Wrap will be 9” tall and 33” long (made to fit a 9” tall X 11” across bucket)
Pattern Notes:
The wrap is made to fit most buckets. It’s tie in the back allows it to fit buckets that may vary slightly in size or be larger on the top or bottom.
The beginning chain always counts as a stitch.
Due to the nature of crocheting cables, each stitch needs to be a different length to result in an even row. Rows will have a combination of dc & tc stitches.
The Cable Bucket Wrap PATTERN
The pattern for the Cable Bucket Wrap is below. I looks long, but I broke it down in step by step bullet points. Be patient, it is easier than it looks.
Row 1:
Ch 21, hdc in 3rd ch from hook and each remaining ch, turn (20 hdc counting the beginning ch now and for rest of pattern)
Row 2:
Ch 2, dc in 1st st,
skip next 4 sts,
FPtc in each of the next 3 sts,
working in front of the tc you just completed work a FPtc in each of the first 2 skipped sts,
working behind all the stitches complete a tc in each of the remaining 2 skipped sts,
dc in next 2 sts,
skip next 5 sts, FPtc in next 2 sts,
working behind the tc you just completed work a FPtc in each of the first 3 skipped sts,
work a tc in the remaining 2 skipped sts,
dc in last 2 sts left in the row, turn (20)
Row 3:
Ch 2, dc in 1st st,
BPdc in next 3 sts,
dc in next 2 sts,
skip next 2 sts, tc in next 2 sts,
working behind the st you just completed work a BPtc in the 2 skipped sts
skip next 2 sts, work a BPtc in the next 2 sts,
working in front of the sts you just completed work a tc in each of the 2 sts you skipped,
BPdc in next 3 sts,
dc in last 2 sts left in the row, turn (20)
Row 4:
Ch 2, dc in 1st st,
FPdc in next 3 sts,
dc in next 2 sts,
skip next 2 sts, FPtc in next 2 sts,
working in front of the 2 sts you just completed, work a FPtc in the 2 sts you skipped,
dc in next 2 sts,
skip next 2 sts, FPtc in next 3 sts,
working behind the sts you just completed work 2 tc in skipped sts,
dc in last 2 sts left in the row, turn (20)
Row 5:
Ch 2, 1 dc in each of the next 3 sts,
BPdc in next 3 sts,
dc in next 2 sts,
BPdc in next 4 sts,
dc in next 2 sts,
BPdc in next 3 sts,
dc in last 2 sts left in row, turn (20)
Row 6:
Ch 2, dc in 1st st,
FPdc in next 3 sts,
skip next 2 sts, FPtc in next 2 sts,
working behind the sts you just completed work a tc in each of the skipped 2 sts,
FPdc in next 2 sts,
skip next 2 sts, FPtc in next 3 sts,
working behind the sts you just completed work a tc in each of the skipped 2 sts,
1 dc in each of the last 4 sts, turn (20)
Row 7:
Ch 2, dc in 1st st,
skip next 2 sts, BPtc in next 2 sts (this is the start of a new cable),
working in front of the stitches you just completed work 1 tc in each of the skipped 2 sts,
skip next 3 sts, BPtc in next 2 sts,
working behind the sts you just completed work a BPtc in the 3 skipped sts,
dc in next 2 sts,
skip next 2 sts, BPtc in next 3 sts,
working behind the sts you just completed work a BPtc in the 2 skipped sts,
dc in each of the last 2 sts, turn (20)
Row 8:
Ch 2, dc in 1st st,
FPdc around next 2 sts,
skip next 3 sts, dc in next 2 sts,
working in front of the sts you just completed work a FPtc in the 3 skipped sts,
FPdc in next 5 sts,
dc in next 2 sts,
FPdc in next 2 sts,
dc in each of the last 2 sts, turn (20)
Row 9:
Ch 2, dc in 1st st,
BPdc in next 2 sts,
dc in next 2 sts,
skip next 2 sts, BPtc in next 3 sts,
working behind the sts you just completed work a BPtc in the 2 skipped sts,
BPdc in next 3 sts,
dc in next 2 sts,
BPdc in next 2 sts,
dc in each of the last 2 sts, turn (20)
Row 10:
Ch 2, dc in 1st st,
skip next 2 sts, dc in next 2 sts,
working in front of the sts you just completed work a FPtc in the 2 skipped sts,
skip next 3 sts, FPtc in next 2 sts,
working in front of the sts you just completed work a FPtc in the 3 skipped sts,
skip next 3 sts, tc in next 2 sts,
working in front of the sts you just completed work a FPtc in the 3 skipped sts,
FPdc in next 2 sts,
dc in each of the last 2 sts, turn (20)
Row 11:
Ch 2, dc in 1st st,
skip next 2 sts, BPtc in next 3 sts,
working in front of the sts you just completed work a BPtc in the 2 skipped sts,
dc in next 2 sts,
BPdc in next 3 sts,
skip next 2 sts, BPtc in next 2 sts,
working behind the sts you just completed work a BPtc in the 2 skipped sts,
dc in each of the last 4 sts, turn (20)
Row 12:
Ch 2, dc in 1st st,
skip next 2 sts, FPtc in next 2 sts,
working behind the sts you just completed work a tc in the 2 skipped sts,
skip next 2 sts, FPtc in next 3 sts,
working in front of the sts you just completed work a FPtc in the 2 skipped sts,
dc in next 2 sts,
FPdc in next 5 sts,
dc in each of the last 2 sts, turn (20)
Row 13:
Ch 2, dc in 1st st,
BPdc in next 3 sts,
skip next 2 sts, tc in next 2 sts,
working behind the sts you just completed work a BPtc in the 2 skipped sts,
BPdc in next 5 sts,
dc in next 2 sts,
BPdc in next 2 sts,
dc in each of the last 2 sts, turn (20)
Row 14:
Ch 2, dc in 1st st,
FPdc in next 2 sts,
skip next 2 sts, FPtc in next 3 sts,
working behind the sts you just completed work a tc in the 2 skipped sts,
skip next 2 sts, FPtc in next 2 sts,
working in front of the sts you just completed work a FPtc in the 2 skipped sts,
dc in next 2 sts,
FPdc in next 3 sts,
dc in each of the last 2 sts, turn (20)
Row 15:
Ch 2, dc in 1st st,
BPdc in next 3 sts,
dc in next 2 sts,
BPdc in next 4 sts,
dc in next 2 sts,
BPdc in next 5 sts,
dc in each of the last 2 sts, turn (20)
Row 16:
Ch 2, dc in 1st st,
skip next 2 sts, FPtc in next 3 sts,
working behind the sts you just completed work a FPtc in the 2 skipped sts,
dc in next 2 sts,
FPdc in next 2 sts,
skip next 2 sts, tc in next 2 sts,
working in front of the sts you just completed work a FPtc in the 2 skipped sts,
FPdc in next 3 sts,
dc in each of the last 2 sts, turn (20)
Row 17:
Ch 2, dc in 1st st,
skip next 3 st, BPtc in next 2 sts,
working in front of the sts you just completed work a BPtc in the 3 skipped sts,
dc in next 2 sts,
BPdc in next 2 sts,
dc in next 2 sts,
BPdc in next 5 sts,
dc in each of the last 2 sts, turn (20)
Row 18:
Ch 2, dc in 1st st,
skip next 3 sts, FPtc in next 2 sts,
working behind the sts you just completed work a FPtc in the 3 skipped sts,
dc in next 2 sts,
FPdc in next 2 sts,
skip next 2 sts, FPtc in next 3 sts,
working behind the sts you just completed work a tc in the 2 skipped sts,
FPdc in next 2 sts,
dc in each of the last 2 sts, turn (20)
Row 19:
Ch 2, dc in 1st st,
BPdc in next 2 sts,
dc in next 2 sts,
skip next 3 sts, BPtc in next 2 sts (this will be the last row of this cable strand),
working behind the sts you just completed work a BPtc in the 3 skipped sts,
skip next 2 sts, BPtc in next 3 sts,
working in front of the sts you just completed work a tc in the 2 skipped sts,
BPdc in next 2 sts,
dc in each of the last 2 sts, turn (20)
Row 20:
Ch 2, dc in 1st st,
FPdc in next 2 sts,
dc in next 2 sts,
FPdc in next 3 sts,
skip next 3 sts, tc in next 2 sts,
working in front of the sts you just completed work a FPtc in the 3 skipped sts,
dc in next 2 sts,
FPdc in next 2 sts,
dc in each of the last 2 sts, turn (20)
Row 21:
Ch 2, dc in 1st st,
BPdc in next 2 sts,
dc in next 2 sts,
BPdc in next 3 sts,
dc in next 2 sts,
BPdc in next 3 sts,
dc in next 2 sts,
BPdc in next 2 sts,
dc in each of the last 2 sts, turn (20)
Repeat Rows to finish the cable bucket wrap:
the sections below will be repeats of the above rows.
Row 22-36: repeat Row 2 – 16
Row 37: Ch 2, hdc in each st across, fasten off.
The bucket wrap is simply tied around a bucket. I attached 2 ties on each end of the wrap.
Joining with a slst around 2 stitches will leave a more stable base for the ties. Slst around the 5th & 6th st from the top of row 36, ch 20 and fasten off.
Join with a slst around the 5th & 6th st from the bottom of row 36, ch 20 and fasten off.
Repeat the steps above joining with a slst around the 5th & 6th st from the top (and then the bottom) of row 2, ch 20 and fasten off.
